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Katalog / Fantasie

Floppy Dragon Häkelanleitung

  • Mathematisch ausgeglichenPer Skript geprüft: In allen 117 Runden passen Zu- und Abnahmen zur Maschenzahl.

vom AnleitungsgeneratorFantasie

Schwierigkeit
3/3
Zeit
~4 Std.
Größe
13.9 cm
Schrägheit
2/5
HäkelnRemix erstellen
Kostenloses PDF zum Drucken herunterladen

A4-PDF: Material, jede Runde mit Kästchen, Montage und Gesicht

A free floppy dragon crochet pattern for a soft sage-green amigurumi dragon with long, dangly arms and legs that flop wherever you sit it. This dragon plushie has a cream belly, little cream horns, cream paws, small dark sage wings and a row of soft spikes running from its head down to the tail. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, with lightly stuffed limbs, 10 mm safety eyes and an embroidered smile, and it ends up about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall. Follow the pattern row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every piece is sewn.

Floppy Dragon häkeln

Fortgeschritten · 14 cm hoch · etwa 4 Std. · Garn DK · Häkelnadel 2.5 mm

  1. Häkle die 17 Teile in Runden: Body, Head, Muzzle, Belly patch, Horn ×2, Long arm ×2, Long leg ×2, Tail, Wing ×2, Soft spike ×4 (insgesamt 117 Runden).
  2. Fülle und montiere in 13 Schritten; jeder leuchtet am 3D-Modell dort auf, wo das Teil hingehört.
  3. Gestalte das Gesicht: Sicherheitsaugen nach Runde und Masche, oder gestickt für Kinder unter 3 Jahren.

Jede Runde mit Maschenzahl steht unten im Reiter Anleitung und im kostenlosen PDF zum Drucken.

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Maschenprobe

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

So wird gehäkelt

In fortlaufenden Spiralrunden. Runden nicht schließen. Den Markierer jede Runde hochsetzen.

Teile

Sprache der AnleitungenrudefrKostenloses PDF zum Drucken herunterladenPDF
0 von 84 Runden fertig

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.4 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.1 cm at the widest, 6.8 cm long; 27 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.4 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With sage: ch 5.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat oval about 6.1 × 3.7 cm; 5 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running vertically, top to bottom. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 3 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 8.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 14 rounds.
  2. Change to sage (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 5.8 cm long; 17 rounds.
  2. Change to sage (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.6 cm at the widest, 3.3 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 40° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 5 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 3 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 32 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) -->

  1. Of these: on the head — 1; on the body — 2; on the tail — 1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 6 mm thick.<!-- flattened 55 % -->

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10 mm (on the head): between rounds 14 and 15, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.7 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Blush about 12 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 17 and 18, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour pink.
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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  • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abkürzungen

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done