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Katalog / Fantasie

Cute Krampus Häkelanleitung

  • Mathematisch ausgeglichenPer Skript geprüft: In allen 110 Runden passen Zu- und Abnahmen zur Maschenzahl.

vom AnleitungsgeneratorFantasie

Schwierigkeit
3/3
Zeit
~4 Std.
Größe
12.6 cm
Schrägheit
1/5
HäkelnRemix erstellen
Kostenloses PDF zum Drucken herunterladen

A4-PDF: Material, jede Runde mit Kästchen, Montage und Gesicht

A free crochet Krampus pattern for a cute, not scary, chocolate-brown amigurumi with curled horns and a pink tongue. He has big shiny eyes, long pointed ears with pink insides, cream ram horns, a tiny gold bell on a red collar and a shaggy fur frill at the hem, a friendly Krampus plushie for the holiday shelf. He is about 12.6 cm (5 in) tall and worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, with safety eyes and a sewn-on head, ears, horns, arms, legs and tongue. The page gives a row-by-row pattern with stitch counts and an interactive 3D model to check every piece.

Cute Krampus häkeln

Fortgeschritten · 13 cm hoch · etwa 4 Std. · Garn DK · Häkelnadel 2.5 mm

  1. Häkle die 18 Teile in Runden: Body, Head, Fur ruff, Red band, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Horn ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Tail, Bell, Tongue, Cheek ×2 (insgesamt 115 Runden).
  2. Fülle und montiere in 13 Schritten; jeder leuchtet am 3D-Modell dort auf, wo das Teil hingehört.
  3. Gestalte das Gesicht: Sicherheitsaugen nach Runde und Masche, oder gestickt für Kinder unter 3 Jahren.

Jede Runde mit Maschenzahl steht unten im Reiter Anleitung und im kostenlosen PDF zum Drucken.

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Maschenprobe

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

So wird gehäkelt

In fortlaufenden Spiralrunden. Runden nicht schließen. Den Markierer jede Runde hochsetzen.

Teile

Sprache der AnleitungenrudefrKostenloses PDF zum Drucken herunterladenPDF
0 von 93 Runden fertig

  12. Size before assembly: about 6.6 cm at the widest, 4.5 cm long; 16 rounds.
  13. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  23. Size before assembly: about 8.3 cm at the widest, 6.5 cm long; 27 rounds.
  24. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  25. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  6. Size before assembly: about 8.3 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 5 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. Size before assembly: about 5.6 cm at the widest, 0.7 cm long; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 3 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With muzzle tan: ch 4.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  11. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 4.1 cm long; 12 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  12. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 3 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 32 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) -->

  12. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 4.2 cm long; 12 rounds.
  13. Change to horn tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  14. Change to horn cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  15. Change to horn tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  16. Change to horn cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  17. Change to horn tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  18. Change to horn cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  19. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 150° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 5 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, 1.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 1.27 left -->). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 4 to round 8, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 4 rounds) and fasten off inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  7. Size before assembly: about 1.7 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 8 rounds.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  9. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  10. Change to fur brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.4 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  6. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  7. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  7. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.2 × 0.8 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 6 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the back of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With tongue pink: ch 3.
  7. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  8. Press the piece flat to about 7 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 45 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the head): between rounds 14 and 15, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.5 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Fringe (on the head): cut 10 pieces of yarn (fur mid, fur brown) about 44 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 4 and 5, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 5, on the centre front line -> between rounds 4 and 5, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 12 mm.
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abkürzungen

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done