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Katalog / Tiere

Long-Legged Frog Häkelanleitung

  • Mathematisch ausgeglichenPer Skript geprüft: In allen 127 Runden passen Zu- und Abnahmen zur Maschenzahl.

vom AnleitungsgeneratorTiere

Schwierigkeit
3/3
Zeit
~5 Std.
Größe
14.2 cm
Schrägheit
1/5
HäkelnRemix erstellen
Kostenloses PDF zum Drucken herunterladen

A4-PDF: Material, jede Runde mit Kästchen, Montage und Gesicht

A free crochet frog pattern for a long-legged green frog that sits with its knees softly bent and big flat feet. This amigurumi frog has round eyes on top of a wide head, a happy smile, pink cheeks, a pale lime belly patch and a little red bandana, and each foot ends in three round toes. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and is about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall seated; the tapered arms and legs, eye bumps, flat feet and toes are made separately, and the eyes are embroidered. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to check every piece.

Long-Legged Frog häkeln

Fortgeschritten · 14 cm hoch · etwa 5 Std. · Garn DK · Häkelnadel 2.5 mm

  1. Häkle die 22 Teile in Runden: Body, Head, Eye bump ×2, Eye white ×2, Cheek ×2, Belly patch, Bandana, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Flat foot ×2, Toe ×6 (insgesamt 140 Runden).
  2. Fülle und montiere in 13 Schritten; jeder leuchtet am 3D-Modell dort auf, wo das Teil hingehört.
  3. Gestalte das Gesicht: Sicherheitsaugen nach Runde und Masche, oder gestickt für Kinder unter 3 Jahren.

Jede Runde mit Maschenzahl steht unten im Reiter Anleitung und im kostenlosen PDF zum Drucken.

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Alle Amigurumi-Anleitungen: Frosch →Alles in tiere →
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Maschenprobe

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

So wird gehäkelt

In fortlaufenden Spiralrunden. Runden nicht schließen. Den Markierer jede Runde hochsetzen.

Teile

Sprache der AnleitungenrudefrKostenloses PDF zum Drucken herunterladenPDF
0 von 99 Runden fertig

  20. Size before assembly: about 6.7 cm at the widest, 9.3 cm long; 28 rounds.
  21. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  24. Size before assembly: an oval about 9.2 × 6.8 cm at the widest, 6.4 cm long; 24 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the top of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 3 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  25. With moss green: ch 8.
  26. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  27. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 16 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  7. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 8 rounds.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  4. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  5. A flat oval about 4.5 × 2.9 cm; 4 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running vertically, top to bottom. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With pale lime: ch 6.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  14. Flat motif — triangle (worked in turned rows, one layer of fabric), about 4.7 × 9.6 cm; 13 rows.
  15. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  8. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 7.9 cm long; 22 rounds.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 60° around round 9<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 9, on the centre front line <!-- st 0.23 right -->). On the inner side draw rounds 8 and 10 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  12. Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 8.9 cm long; 25 rounds.
  13. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 60° around round 13<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 13, on the centre bottom line <!-- st 0.18 right -->). On the inner side draw rounds 12 and 14 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  8. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.3 × 2.1 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 7 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  9. With pale lime: ch 5.
  10. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  11. Press the piece flat to about 1.5 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 55 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 10 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  7. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Embroidered eyes (on the eye white) (2: one on each eye white; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in black thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 9 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line.
  • Eye glint (on the eye white) (2: one on each eye white; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in snow white thread over the embroidered eye, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 2.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line, then moved 1.6 mm to the right and 2 mm up (looking at the toy's face).
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 14 and 15, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 15 and 16, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 16, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, on the centre front line ) → (in round 16, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 15 and 16, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abkürzungen

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done