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Catálogo / Animales

Bear in a Gift Box patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 117 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesAnimales

Dificultad
3/3
Tiempo
~5 h
Tamaño
14.3 cm
Rareza
1/5
TejerloHacer un remix
Descargar PDF gratis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

A free crochet Christmas present pattern: a honey-brown amigurumi teddy waving from a red gift box. The box has a gold ribbon and bow, and its lid sits tilted on the bear's head like a jaunty red hat with a gold knob, so this teddy bear plushie is a gift and a surprise in one. It stands about 14 cm (5.6 in) tall and is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, with safety eyes, a cream muzzle and separately sewn ears, paws, lid and bow. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every piece goes.

Cómo tejer Bear in a Gift Box a crochet

Avanzado · 14 cm de alto · unas 5 h · hilo DK · ganchillo de 2.5 mm

  1. Teje las 15 piezas en vueltas: Gift box, Bear body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Paw ×2, Box lid, Lid knob, Bow loop ×2, Bow knot, Cheek ×2 (117 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 12 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

0 de 12 reunidos

RemixTejerlo

Muestra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 91 vueltas hechas

  12. Size before assembly: an oval about 10.8 × 6.8 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 22 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 5 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  13. With box red: ch 12.
  14. Change to ribbon gold (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  15. Change to box red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  16. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  13. Size before assembly: about 5 cm at the widest, 4.3 cm long; 17 rounds.
  14. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  15. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  23. Size before assembly: about 8.3 cm at the widest, 6.5 cm long; 27 rounds.
  24. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  25. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 3 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With cream: ch 4.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  8. Change to honey brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  9. → This piece is not stuffed.
  10. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–3 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 3.1 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 4–6 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 33 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  7. Size before assembly: about 1.7 cm at the widest, 3 cm long; 9 rounds.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  19. Size before assembly: about 6.7 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 19 rounds.
  20. Change to ribbon gold (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  21. Change to lid red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  22. → Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  23. Press the piece flat to about 6 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 10 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  6. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  7. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  8. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  4. A flat oval about 3 × 2.2 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  5. With ribbon gold: ch 4.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat oval about 1.8 × 1.4 cm; 2 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running vertically, top to bottom. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  4. With ribbon gold: ch 3.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the head): in round 15, 9 st apart (count along round 15: about 4.5 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

Abreviaturas

MR
magic ring
sc
single crochet
inc
2 sc in the same stitch
dec
single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
BLO
work the round in back loops only
FLO
work the round in front loops only
ch
chain
sl st
slip stitch
st
stitch
R5
round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
(…) ×6
repeat 6 times
(24)
stitches in the round when it is done

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