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Catálogo / Animales

Highland Cow Keychain patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 53 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesAnimales

Dificultad
1/3
Tiempo
~2 h
Tamaño
5.9 cm
Rareza
1/5
TejerloHacer un remix
Descargar PDF gratis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

Free crochet highland cow pattern: a Highland Cow Keychain amigurumi, about 6 cm tall in fingering yarn with a 2.0 mm hook. A tiny amber-ginger cow head with a curly golden fringe, upswept cream horns with brown tips, rosy cheeks and a brown loop on top for a key ring. You need about 50 m of yarn: 20 m dark orange, 5 m dark brown, 5 m ivory, 5 m rust, 5 m light orange, 5 m light pink and 5 m blush pink. Plan on roughly 2 hours. Clip it to a bag zip, a set of keys or a tree branch at Christmas; it is a quick small make and a sweet present for cow fans. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

Cómo tejer Highland Cow Keychain a crochet

Para principiantes · 6 cm de alto · unas 2 h · hilo fingering · ganchillo de 2 mm

  1. Teje las 9 piezas en vueltas: Head ball, Muzzle, Horn ×2, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Key loop (53 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 6 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

0 de 12 reunidos

RemixTejerlo

Muestra

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 43 vueltas hechas

  21. Size before assembly: about 5.5 cm at the widest, 4.1 cm long; 23 rounds.
  22. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  23. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.6 × 1.7 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With light pink: ch 5.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  11. Size before assembly: about 1 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 13 rounds.
  12. Change to ivory (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  13. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 80° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 5 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, 2 st from the centre front line, upward <!-- st 1.87 up -->). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 6 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  6. Size before assembly: about 1.4 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 6 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 1.2 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 4.2 mm thick); about 14 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 40 %) -->

  3. A flat circle about 1 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. Size before assembly: about 1.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in dark brown (same rounds, no colour changes).
  4. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 20 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 6–7 mm (on the head ball): in round 14, 10 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.8 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in rose thread, a oval about 2.4 mm wide and 3.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, 2.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
  • Fringe (on the head ball): cut 9 pieces of yarn (rust, light orange) about 46 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 20 and 21, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 20, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 20, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 20 and 21, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 13 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Fringe (on the head ball): cut 15 pieces of yarn (rust, light orange) about 56 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 19 and 20, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 19, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 19, on the centre front line -> in round 19, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 19 and 20, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 18 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Fringe (on the head ball): cut 14 pieces of yarn (light orange, rust) about 54 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 17 and 18, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 17 and 18, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line -> between rounds 17 and 18, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 17 and 18, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 17 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Mane (on the head ball): cut 9 pieces of yarn (rust, light orange) about 46 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 21 and 22, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 21, on the centre back line -> between rounds 21 and 22, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right, evenly spaced. Trim to about 13 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).

Head ball · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • Curling the strands: Curls: before knotting, wrap the pieces tightly in a spiral around a knitting needle or a wooden skewer (3–4 mm), tape the ends, dampen (or steam with an iron held above, not touching) and let them dry completely on the needle; slide them off and they stay curly. For fluffy waves instead, untwist each strand into its plies and brush lightly. Note: instead of knotted strands the fringe can be worked as loop stitches along the rounds — an alternative that is not part of this pattern's stitch counts.
    • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviaturas

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done