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Catálogo / Animales

Rat in a Sweater patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 95 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesAnimales

Dificultad
3/3
Tiempo
~4 h
Tamaño
14.1 cm
Rareza
1/5
TejerloHacer un remix
Descargar PDF gratis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

Free crochet rat pattern: a Rat in a Sweater amigurumi, about 14 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. It is a sitting grey rat with big pink ears, a long pink tail and a striped green knitted sweater with cream cuffs and hem, and a small pink nose on a pointed muzzle. You need about 115 m of yarn: 65 m grey, 20 m green, 10 m pink, 15 m cream and 5 m light grey. Plan on roughly 4 hours. A sweet gift for rat lovers or a cosy desk buddy; spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

Cómo tejer Rat in a Sweater a crochet

Avanzado · 14 cm de alto · unas 4 h · hilo DK · ganchillo de 2.5 mm

  1. Teje las 13 piezas en vueltas: Body, Sweater hem, Head, Sweater collar, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Arm with sleeve ×2, Leg ×2, Foot pad ×2 (95 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 10 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

0 de 10 reunidos

RemixTejerlo

Muestra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 76 vueltas hechas

  18. Size before assembly: about 7.4 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 19 rounds.
  19. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  20. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  21. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  22. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  23. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  24. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  3. Size before assembly: about 6.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  23. Size before assembly: about 8.4 cm at the widest, 6.9 cm long; 28 rounds.
  24. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  25. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  3. Size before assembly: about 6.2 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  6. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.1 × 1.7 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  7. With light grey: ch 3.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  11. Size before assembly: about 4.8 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 11 rounds.
  12. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  13. → This piece is not stuffed.
  14. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–5 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 5 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 6–11 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 48 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  8. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 4.1 cm long; 11 rounds.
  9. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  10. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  9. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  4. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the head): in round 14, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.7 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in rose thread, a oval about 8 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line.
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Blush about 11 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 15 and 16, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Colour blush.
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 3, 2.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 3 and 4, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 4, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 4 and 5, 2.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 5, 2.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviaturas

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done