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Catálogo / Animales

Stretching Tabby Cat patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 133 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesAnimales

Dificultad
3/3
Tiempo
~4 h
Tamaño
11.6 cm
Rareza
1/5
TejerloHacer un remix
Descargar PDF gratis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

Free crochet cat pattern: a Stretching Tabby Cat amigurumi, about 12 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. The orange tabby has darker stripes, cream paws and tummy, and it is caught mid-yawn with closed eyes, front paws stretched far forward and its tail up. You need about 110 m of yarn: 75 m orange, 15 m cream, 10 m dark orange, 5 m pink and 5 m light pink. Plan on roughly 4 hours. A funny desk buddy or a present for a cat person who knows the morning stretch. You can turn the 3D model around and follow the round-by-round pattern.

Cómo tejer Stretching Tabby Cat a crochet

Avanzado · 12 cm de alto · unas 4 h · hilo DK · ganchillo de 2.5 mm

  1. Teje las 14 piezas en vueltas: Body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Front leg ×2, Haunch ×2, Hind leg ×2, Tail (133 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 9 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

0 de 10 reunidos

RemixTejerlo

Muestra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 94 vueltas hechas

  28. Size before assembly: about 5.8 cm at the widest, 10.7 cm long; 34 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre top line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  29. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  30. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  31. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  32. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  33. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  34. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  35. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  24. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 25 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  25. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  26. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  27. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.3 × 1.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With cream: ch 3.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  8. Size before assembly: about 3.5 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 7 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 4 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 35 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  12. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.7 × 1.3 cm at the widest, 7.3 cm long; 20 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  13. With cream: ch 3.
  14. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  15. Change to dark orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  16. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  17. Change to dark orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  18. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  19. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  6. A flat circle about 3.8 cm across; 5 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  8. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.7 × 1.3 cm at the widest, 5 cm long; 14 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  9. With cream: ch 3.
  10. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  9. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 7.9 cm long; 22 rounds.
  10. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  11. Change to dark orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  12. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  13. Change to dark orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  14. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  15. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 110° around round 14<!-- the bend spreads over 8 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 14, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 12 and 15 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 13, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 13 and 14, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 14, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 13 and 14, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 13, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in salmon thread, a triangle about 6 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line .
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark pink thread, a oval about 11 mm wide and 8 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre bottom line .
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in salmon thread, a oval about 5 mm wide and 3 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, on the centre bottom line .

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviaturas

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done