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Catálogo / Animales

Waving Scarf Frog patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 64 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesAnimales

Dificultad
1/3
Tiempo
~2 h
Tamaño
10.3 cm
Rareza
3/5
TejerloHacer un remix
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PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

Cada punto está contado. Lo revisé dos veces y una más.

Cómo tejer Waving Scarf Frog a crochet

Para principiantes · 10 cm de alto · unas 2 h · hilo DK · ganchillo de 2.5 mm

  1. Teje las 12 piezas en vueltas: Body, Eye bump ×2, Arm ×2, Foot ×2, Cheek ×2, Scarf, Scarf end ×2 (64 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 9 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

0 de 11 reunidos

Muestra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

RemixTejerlo

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 51 vueltas hechas

  28. Size before assembly: about 8.5 cm at the widest, 7.8 cm long; 30 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  29. Change to golden (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  30. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  31. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 8 rounds.
  8. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  9. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 6 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 8 mm thick.<!-- flattened 50 % -->

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  4. Size before assembly: about 6.9 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 3 rounds.
  5. Change to yellow (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  6. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  6. Of these: front — 1; back — 1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.3 × 0.5 cm at the widest, 3.2 cm long; 9 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  7. With purple: ch 4.
  8. Change to yellow (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  9. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  10. Change to yellow (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Press the piece flat (the opening becomes a straight line), front and back walls together.<!-- flattened 85 % --> Bend ≈ 25° around round 8<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. Bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces backward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 8, on the centre back line). It is a slight bend: tilt the piece as you sew it on; optionally tack the inner side with 1–2 stitches drawing rounds 8 and 9 together.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eye with a printed glint 10 mm (on the eye bump) (2: one on each eye bump; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): between rounds 4 and 5, on the centre front line.
  • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (in round 20, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 19 and 20, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 19, on the centre front line) → (between rounds 19 and 20, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 20, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Fringe (on the front scarf end): cut 6 pieces of yarn (pink) about 56 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 8, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 8, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 18 mm.
  • Fringe (on the back scarf end): cut 6 pieces of yarn (pink) about 56 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 8, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 8, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 18 mm.
  • Satin stitch (on the foot) (2: one on each foot; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in mouth thread, a oval about 3.2 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre front line .
  • Satin stitch (on the foot) (2: one on each foot; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in mouth thread, a oval about 2.8 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the foot) (2: one on each foot; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in mouth thread, a oval about 2.8 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
  • Satin stitch (on the arm): in mouth thread, a oval about 2.4 mm wide and 3.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre front line .
  • Satin stitch (on the arm): in mouth thread, a oval about 2.2 mm wide and 3 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the arm): in mouth thread, a oval about 2.2 mm wide and 3 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .

Abreviaturas

MR
magic ring
sc
single crochet
inc
2 sc in the same stitch
dec
single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
BLO
work the round in back loops only
FLO
work the round in front loops only
ch
chain
sl st
slip stitch
st
stitch
R5
round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
(…) ×6
repeat 6 times
(24)
stitches in the round when it is done

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  • Satin stitch (on the arm): in mouth thread, a oval about 2 mm wide and 2.8 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .