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Catálogo / Fantasia

Bigfoot in Pajamas receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 149 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasFantasia

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~6 h
Tamanho
18 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet bigfoot pattern: a Bigfoot in Pajamas amigurumi, about 18 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A shaggy brown bigfoot with a flat sandy face, heavy brows and sleepy closed eyes sits in blue-and-white striped pajamas and a nightcap, hugging a tiny pink pillow with big furry feet. You need about 175 m of yarn: 60 m light brown, 45 m blue, 25 m cream, 20 m tan, 10 m pale pink, 5 m brown, 5 m pink and 5 m yellow. Plan on roughly 6 hours. A cosy cryptid for bedtime shelves and gifts for monster fans. Turn the 3D model to check the fur tufts and the striped pajamas, then crochet it round by round.

Como fazer Bigfoot in Pajamas de crochê

Avançado · 18 cm de altura · cerca de 6 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 15 partes em carreiras: Body in pajama top, Head, Nightcap, Pompom, Muzzle, Leg with big foot ×2, Foot pad ×2, Tiny pillow, Arm with sleeve ×2, Cheek ×2, Star (151 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 11 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

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0 de 129 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 7.1 cm long; 23 rounds.
  2. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  4. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  5. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  6. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  7. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  8. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  9. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  10. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  11. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  12. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  13. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
  14. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  15. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R22).
  16. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.3 cm at the widest, 6.5 cm long; 27 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Change to light brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R22).
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.5 cm at the widest, 9.6 cm long; 27 rounds.
  2. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  4. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  5. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  6. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  7. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  8. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R22).
  9. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R24).
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 120° around round 12<!-- the bend spreads over 7 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 12, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 4.02 left -->). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 9 to round 15, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 6 rounds) and fasten off inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 4.2 × 3 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With tan: ch 5.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5 cm at the widest, 5.9 cm long; 19 rounds.
  2. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  3. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  4. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  5. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly, then press the piece slightly flat (oval cross-section; flattened 25 %).

  1. A flat circle about 3.8 cm across; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 4 × 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 11 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 4.
  3. Change to pale pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  4. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  5. Press the piece flat to about 2.2 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 45 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 7.9 cm long; 23 rounds.
  2. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  3. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  4. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  5. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  6. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  7. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  8. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  9. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R20).
  10. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Flat motif — star (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 3.3 × 3.5 cm; 2 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 14, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 15, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 14, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 13, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 12, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 12 and 13, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in charcoal thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Strands (mane) (on the head): cut 7 pieces of yarn (light brown, brown) about 60 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 11, 11.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 15, 13.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 19, 14 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 20 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
  • Strands (mane) (on the head): cut 7 pieces of yarn (light brown, brown) about 60 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 11, 11.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 15, 13.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 19, 14 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 20 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).

Body in pajama top · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • Mane (on the head): cut 22 pieces of yarn (light brown, brown) about 52 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 15, 16.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 16, on the centre back line -> in round 15, 16.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 16 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
  • Strands (mane) (on the arm with sleeve) (2: one on each arm with sleeve; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): cut 9 pieces of yarn (light brown, brown) about 42 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 9, 1 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> in round 9, on the centre front line -> in round 9, 1 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 11 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
  • Mane (on the head): cut 20 pieces of yarn (light brown, brown) about 52 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 9, 15 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 9, on the centre back line -> in round 9, 15 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right, evenly spaced. Trim to about 16 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
  • Curling the strands: Soft waves: untwist each strand into its plies and brush lightly.
  • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done