Floppy Dragon receita de crochê

Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 117 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasFantasia

Dificuldade: 3/3
Tempo: ~4 h
Tamanho: 13.9 cm
Esquisitice: 2/5

PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

A free floppy dragon crochet pattern for a soft sage-green amigurumi dragon with long, dangly arms and legs that flop wherever you sit it. This dragon plushie has a cream belly, little cream horns, cream paws, small dark sage wings and a row of soft spikes running from its head down to the tail. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, with lightly stuffed limbs, 10 mm safety eyes and an embroidered smile, and it ends up about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall. Follow the pattern row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every piece is sewn.

Como fazer Floppy Dragon de crochê

Avançado · 14 cm de altura · cerca de 4 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

Faça as 17 partes em carreiras: Body, Head, Muzzle, Belly patch, Horn ×2, Long arm ×2, Long leg ×2, Tail, Wing ×2, Soft spike ×4 (117 carreiras no total).
Encha e monte em 13 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

Marque os itens conforme for separando.

0 de 8 separados

Fio sageespessura DK80 m
Fio dark_sageespessura DK15 m
Fio creamespessura DK15 m
Agulha de crochêde 2.5 mm1
Olhos de segurançaou borde-os para crianças pequenas2
Enchimentofibra siliconada30 g
Marcador de pontospara carreiras em espiral1
Agulha de tapeçariapara costurar as partes1

Todas as receitas de amigurumi dragão →Tudo em fantasia →

Gerador
Green Dino with a Red Saddle
pelo gerador de receitas

Remix Fazer

0 de 84 carreiras feitas

R1starting in the 2nd ch from hook: sc 3, 3 sc in the last ch; continue along the other side of the chain: sc 2, 2 sc in the last ch (the one you made the first sc in)(10)
R2(inc ×2, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc) ×2(16)
R31 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc(22)
R4–522 sc(22)
Size before assembly: an oval about 3.4 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
With sage: ch 5.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

R1starting in the 2nd ch from hook: sc 6, 3 sc in the last ch; continue along the other side of the chain: sc 5, 2 sc in the last ch (the one you made the first sc in)(16)
R21 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc(22)
R33 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc(28)
R44 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc(34)
R55 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 13 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 6 sc(40)
A flat oval about 6.1 × 3.7 cm; 5 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running vertically, top to bottom. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 3 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
With cream: ch 8.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

R1with cream: 4 sc in MR(4)
R2(1 sc, inc) ×2(6)
R3(2 sc, inc) ×2(8)
R42 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 1 sc(10)
R510 sc(10)
Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

R1with cream: 6 sc in MR(6)
R2inc ×6(12)
R3–1412 sc(12)
Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 14 rounds.
Change to sage (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

R1with cream: 6 sc in MR(6)
R2inc ×6(12)
R3(2 sc, inc) ×4(16)
R4–516 sc(16)
R63 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc(14)
R7–1714 sc(14)
Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 5.8 cm long; 17 rounds.
Change to sage (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

R1with dark sage: 4 sc in MR(4)
R2inc ×3, 1 sc(7)
R31 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc(10)
R41 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc(13)
R53 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 1 sc(16)
R62 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc(19)
R7–819 sc(19)
Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 8 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 3 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 32 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.

R1with dark sage: 4 sc in MR(4)
R2(1 sc, inc) ×2(6)
R3(2 sc, inc) ×2(8)
R42 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 1 sc(10)
R510 sc(10)
Of these: on the head — 1; on the body — 2; on the tail — 1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 6 mm thick.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

Safety eyes with a printed glint 10 mm (on the head): between rounds 14 and 15, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.7 st each side of the centre front line).
Blush about 12 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 17 and 18, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour pink.
Embroidery in brown thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
Embroidery in brown thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).