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Catálogo / Plantas

Succulent Trio in a Long Pot receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 112 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasPlantas

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~4 h
Tamanho
10.6 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet succulents pattern: a Succulent Trio in a Long Pot amigurumi, about 11 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A sleepy cactus with a pink flower, a sage-green rosette with wide eyes and a winking lime aloe share one long butter-yellow pot, and a tiny ladybug sits on the soil in front. You need about 120 m of yarn: 25 m sage, 20 m each of green, lime and butter yellow, 10 m cream and 5 m each of brown, red, pink, black and dusty pink. Plan on roughly 4 hours. Three friendly plants in one pot make a tidy gift for a plant-loving friend or a no-care centrepiece for a desk or windowsill. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern to make each plant.

Como fazer Succulent Trio in a Long Pot de crochê

Avançado · 11 cm de altura · cerca de 4 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 19 partes em carreiras: Rectangular pot, Cactus, Cactus arm ×2, Flower, Rosette ball, Aloe, Rosette petal ×5, Aloe leaf ×2, Cheek ×2, Ladybug, Bug spot ×2 (112 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 13 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

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0 de 80 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 10.7 × 5.1 cm at the widest, 4.5 cm long; 18 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 7 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With butter yellow: ch 16.
  3. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  4. Change to butter yellow (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  5. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  6. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  7. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 8 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.2 cm at the widest, 6.4 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.6 cm at the widest, 4.1 cm long; 18 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.1 cm at the widest, 4.8 cm long; 16 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Of these: front — 1; side — 2 (left and right); back — 2 (left and right). Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 6 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 50 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.8 cm at the widest, 4.1 cm long; 12 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 1.1 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 40 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.3 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the cactus) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 17 and 18, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left) → (in round 17, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 17, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 17, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the cactus), straight stitches through: (between rounds 15 and 16, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 15, on the centre front line ) → (in round 15, on the centre front line ) → (in round 15, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 15 and 16, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 9 mm (on the rosette ball): in round 9, 7 st apart (count along round 9: about 3.5 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the rosette ball): in dark brown thread, a oval about 4 mm wide and 3 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 7, on the centre front line .
  • Safety eye with a printed glint 9 mm (on the aloe): in round 9, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the aloe), straight stitches through: (between rounds 9 and 10, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 10, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 10, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the aloe), straight stitches through: (between rounds 6 and 7, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 6, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 6, on the centre front line ) → (in round 6, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 6 and 7, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

Abreviações

MR
magic ring
sc
single crochet
inc
2 sc in the same stitch
dec
single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
BLO
work the round in back loops only
FLO
work the round in front loops only
ch
chain
sl st
slip stitch
st
stitch
R5
round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
(…) ×6
repeat 6 times
(24)
stitches in the round when it is done

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