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Katalog / Tiere

Poodle Häkelanleitung

  • Mathematisch ausgeglichenPer Skript geprüft: In allen 87 Runden passen Zu- und Abnahmen zur Maschenzahl.

vom AnleitungsgeneratorTiere

Schwierigkeit
3/3
Zeit
~5 Std.
Größe
12.5 cm
Schrägheit
1/5
HäkelnRemix erstellen
Kostenloses PDF zum Drucken herunterladen

A4-PDF: Material, jede Runde mit Kästchen, Montage und Gesicht

This free crochet poodle pattern makes a sitting apricot toy poodle with a curly topknot, long curly ears and a pompom tail. The amigurumi poodle wears a pink bow in its curls and has big shiny eyes with embroidered lashes, rosy cheeks and a smooth little muzzle. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and stands about 13 cm (5 in) tall; popcorn rounds texture the ears and tail, and small padded circles sewn over the head make the curls. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every curl goes.

Poodle häkeln

Fortgeschritten · 13 cm hoch · etwa 5 Std. · Garn DK · Häkelnadel 2.5 mm

  1. Häkle die 68 Teile in Runden: Body, Head, Topknot, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Front paw ×2, Hind paw ×2, Pompom tail, Bow loop ×2, Bow knot, Curl (padded applique) ×52 (insgesamt 121 Runden).
  2. Fülle und montiere in 18 Schritten; jeder leuchtet am 3D-Modell dort auf, wo das Teil hingehört.
  3. Gestalte das Gesicht: Sicherheitsaugen nach Runde und Masche, oder gestickt für Kinder unter 3 Jahren.

Jede Runde mit Maschenzahl steht unten im Reiter Anleitung und im kostenlosen PDF zum Drucken.

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Alle Amigurumi-Anleitungen: Hund →Alles in tiere →
  • Vorschau von Winnie-the-Pooh with a Honey Pot
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Maschenprobe

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

So wird gehäkelt

In fortlaufenden Spiralrunden. Runden nicht schließen. Den Markierer jede Runde hochsetzen.

Teile

Sprache der AnleitungenrudefrKostenloses PDF zum Drucken herunterladenPDF
0 von 107 Runden fertig

  21. Size before assembly: about 7.3 cm at the widest, 5.9 cm long; 24 rounds.
  22. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  23. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  25. Size before assembly: about 8.7 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 27 rounds.
  26. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  27. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  11. Size before assembly: about 3.9 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 12 rounds.
  12. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  13. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  6. Size before assembly: about 2.7 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 6 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  16. Size before assembly: about 4.2 cm at the widest, 4.8 cm long; 15 rounds.
  17. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 4 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 42 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) --> Bend ≈ 90° around round 13<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds --><!-- drape relax_mm 6 twist 1 -->. The piece is soft and unstuffed: do not tack a fold. Sewn on as the assembly says, it bends over the head by itself and hangs down; the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 13, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the back <!-- st 1.22 back -->). If the ear sticks out, smooth it down along the head by hand.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  8. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 8 rounds.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  9. Size before assembly: about 3.8 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 9 rounds.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  10. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  4. A flat oval about 2.6 × 2.2 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running front to back. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  5. With rose: ch 3.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat oval about 2.3 × 1.5 cm; 2 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  4. With rose: ch 4.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. Of these: on the topknot — 23 (10 pairs, left and right, and 3 single); on the head — 22 (10 pairs, left and right, and 2 single); on the body — 7 (3 pairs, left and right, and 1 single). A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 14 mm (on the head): in round 14, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.4 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Safety nose, oval, 8×6 mm (on the muzzle): in round 1, on the centre top line . Colour nose #2e211e.
  • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in nose thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 13, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 12 and 13, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in nose thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 12 and 13, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abkürzungen

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done