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Catalog / Animals

Poodle crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 87 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

RemixCrochet it
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~5 h
Size
12.5 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

This free crochet poodle pattern makes a sitting apricot toy poodle with a curly topknot, long curly ears and a pompom tail. The amigurumi poodle wears a pink bow in its curls and has big shiny eyes with embroidered lashes, rosy cheeks and a smooth little muzzle. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and stands about 13 cm (5 in) tall; popcorn rounds texture the ears and tail, and small padded circles sewn over the head make the curls. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every curl goes.

How to crochet the Poodle

Advanced · 13 cm tall · about 5 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 68 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Topknot, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Front paw ×2, Hind paw ×2, Pompom tail, Bow loop ×2, Bow knot, Curl (padded applique) ×52 (121 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 18 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 8 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 107 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.3 cm at the widest, 5.9 cm long; 24 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.7 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 27 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.9 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 12 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.7 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.2 cm at the widest, 4.8 cm long; 15 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 4 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 42 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) --> Bend ≈ 90° around round 13<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds --><!-- drape relax_mm 6 twist 1 -->. The piece is soft and unstuffed: do not tack a fold. Sewn on as the assembly says, it bends over the head by itself and hangs down; the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 13, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the back <!-- st 1.22 back -->). If the ear sticks out, smooth it down along the head by hand.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.8 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat oval about 2.6 × 2.2 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running front to back. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With rose: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat oval about 2.3 × 1.5 cm; 2 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With rose: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Of these: on the topknot — 23 (10 pairs, left and right, and 3 single); on the head — 22 (10 pairs, left and right, and 2 single); on the body — 7 (3 pairs, left and right, and 1 single). A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head → body. Centre: between rounds 19 and 20, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 15–24 of the body (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 1.8 cm.
    1. Topknot → head. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–6 of the head (all the way round). It points up and slightly forward. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Muzzle → head. Centre: in round 16, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (20 st); the seam covers rounds 12–19 of the head, about 7 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 7 and 8, 11 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 7–9 of the head, about 4 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points outward.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: in round 16, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 14–18 of the head, about 4 st wide.
    1. Front paw → body (make 2). Centre: in round 16, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 15–17 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points forward and down.
    1. Hind paw → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 6 and 7, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (21 st); the seam covers rounds 4–13 of the body, about 9 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Pompom tail → body. Centre: in round 13, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (8 st); the seam covers rounds 12–14 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points up and backward.
    1. Bow loop (no. 1) → head. Centre: between rounds 5 and 6, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 3–8 of the head, about 7 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 3 mm thick).
    1. Bow loop (no. 2) → head. Centre: between rounds 5 and 6, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 3–8 of the head, about 7 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 3 mm thick).
    1. Bow knot → head. Centre: between rounds 5 and 6, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 3–8 of the head, about 5 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 5 mm thick).
    1. Curl (padded applique) → topknot — 23 pieces. Pin them over the topknot (rounds 2–8 of the topknot), symmetrically on both sides, checking against the picture of the finished toy, then sew them on one by one. How to sew each - the first one as the example: Centre: between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 1–4 of the topknot, about 4 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 5 mm thick).
    1. Curl (padded applique) → head — 22 pieces. Pin them over the head (rounds 5–9 of the head), symmetrically on both sides, checking against the picture of the finished toy, then sew them on one by one. How to sew each - the first one as the example: Centre: between rounds 5 and 6, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 4–7 of the head, about 4 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 5 mm thick).
    1. Curl (padded applique) (no. 27) → body. Centre: between rounds 13 and 14, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–15 of the body, about 3 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 5 mm thick).
    1. Curl (padded applique) (no. 28) → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 13 and 14, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–15 of the body, about 4 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 5 mm thick).
    1. Curl (padded applique) (no. 29) → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 16 and 17, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 15–18 of the body, about 4 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 5 mm thick).
    1. Curl (padded applique) (no. 30) → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 16 and 17, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 15–18 of the body, about 4 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 5 mm thick).

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 14 mm (on the head): in round 14, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.4 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Safety nose, oval, 8×6 mm (on the muzzle): in round 1, on the centre top line . Colour nose #2e211e.
    • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ).
    • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in nose thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 13, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 12 and 13, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in nose thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 12 and 13, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0