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Catálogo / Animales

Ballerina Bunny patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 102 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesAnimales

Dificultad
3/3
Tiempo
~5 h
Tamaño
16.4 cm
Rareza
1/5
TejerloHacer un remix
Descargar PDF gratis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

A free crochet bunny pattern for a sweet ballerina in a ruffled pink tutu. This amigurumi bunny is soft white with long upright ears lined in pink, a rose bow at one ear, a pink bodice, rosy cheeks and little pink ballet slippers, with her arms lifted mid-twirl. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, stands about 16 cm (6.5 in) tall, and has safety eyes, an embroidered nose and mouth, and a two-layer chain-ring tutu that is sewn on at the waist. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to check every piece; she also makes a lovely gift for a dancer.

Cómo tejer Ballerina Bunny a crochet

Avanzado · 16 cm de alto · unas 5 h · hilo DK · ganchillo de 2.5 mm

  1. Teje las 16 piezas en vueltas: Body, Head, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Tutu, Tutu top layer, Cheek ×2, Pompom tail, Bow loop ×2, Bow knot (102 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 12 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

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Muestra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 78 vueltas hechas

  16. Size before assembly: about 7.6 cm at the widest, 6.1 cm long; 21 rounds.
  17. Change to bodice (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  18. Change to milk (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
  19. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  24. Size before assembly: about 8.8 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 27 rounds.
  25. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  26. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  9. Size before assembly: about 2.8 cm at the widest, 4 cm long; 12 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 2.9 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 28 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 50 %) -->

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 11 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 45° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, 3 st from the centre front line, upward <!-- st 3.03 up -->). On the inner side draw rounds 3 and 5 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  9. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  10. Change to milk (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. Size before assembly: about 11.6 cm at the widest (lies flat); 6 rounds.
  8. Change to tutu2 (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  5. Size before assembly: about 10 cm at the widest (lies flat); 4 rounds.
  6. Change to tutu (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  4. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 3 rounds.
  5. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  6. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  4. A flat oval about 3.4 × 2.2 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  5. With ribbon: ch 5.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the head): between rounds 13 and 14, 10 st apart (count along round 13: about 4.8 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the head): in nose thread, a oval about 5.5 mm wide and 3.8 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 15 and 16, on the centre front line .
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (in round 16, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 17, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (in round 16, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 17, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviaturas

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done