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Catálogo / Fantasía

Doll in a Bear Costume patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 91 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesFantasía

Dificultad
2/3
Tiempo
~3 h
Tamaño
13 cm
Rareza
1/5
TejerloHacer un remix
Descargar PDF gratis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

A free crochet doll pattern for a chibi child in a cozy brown bear onesie, with the little face peeking out of the hood. This amigurumi doll has round bear ears with cream insides, a cream tummy patch and paws, rosy cheeks and a tiny fringe of dark brown hair, plus a round bear tail at the back. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, stands about 13 cm (5 in) tall, and the face is a padded skin-tone oval sewn onto the hood with 10 mm safety eyes and an embroidered smile. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to check every piece.

Cómo tejer Doll in a Bear Costume a crochet

Intermedio · 13 cm de alto · unas 3 h · hilo DK · ganchillo de 2.5 mm

  1. Teje las 12 piezas en vueltas: Onesie body, Leg ×2, Belly patch, Tail, Hooded head, Ear ×2, Hood trim, Face, Arm ×2 (91 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 9 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

0 de 9 reunidos

RemixTejerlo

Muestra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 71 vueltas hechas

  14. Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 20 rounds.
  15. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  6. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 10 rounds.
  7. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. A flat oval about 4.1 × 2.9 cm; 4 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With oat: ch 5.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  23. Size before assembly: about 8.2 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 26 rounds.
  24. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  25. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  7. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  8. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  9. → This piece is not stuffed.
  10. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–3 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 3.1 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 4–6 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 33 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  8. A flat oval about 7.1 × 5.1 cm; 7 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  9. With oat: ch 7.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  7. A flat oval about 6 × 4.4 cm; 6 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  8. With skin: ch 6.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Do not stuff.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 8 rounds.
  6. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10 mm (on the face): in round 2, 9 st apart (count along round 2: about 4.6 st each side of the centre top line).
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the face), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Blush about 10 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the face, both sides): between rounds 3 and 4, 3 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left . Colour pink.
  • Fringe (on the face): cut 12 pieces of yarn (dark brown) about 32 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 4, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right -> in round 4, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right -> in round 4, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left -> in round 4, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 6 mm.

Onesie body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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    Haz tuyo este amigurumi

    Ábrelo en el editor 3D: cambia los colores, el tamaño de cualquier pieza o pídeselo a la IA con palabras. Tu versión tendrá su propio patrón.

    Prueba a pedir:

    • Píntalo en tonos pastel
    • Hazlo más gordito
    • Ponle una bufanda pequeña
    Abrir en el editor 3DConvierte una foto en un patrón de crochet
    V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviaturas

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done