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Catálogo / Fantasia

Doll in a Bear Costume receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 91 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasFantasia

Dificuldade
2/3
Tempo
~3 h
Tamanho
13 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

A free crochet doll pattern for a chibi child in a cozy brown bear onesie, with the little face peeking out of the hood. This amigurumi doll has round bear ears with cream insides, a cream tummy patch and paws, rosy cheeks and a tiny fringe of dark brown hair, plus a round bear tail at the back. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, stands about 13 cm (5 in) tall, and the face is a padded skin-tone oval sewn onto the hood with 10 mm safety eyes and an embroidered smile. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to check every piece.

Como fazer Doll in a Bear Costume de crochê

Intermediário · 13 cm de altura · cerca de 3 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 12 partes em carreiras: Onesie body, Leg ×2, Belly patch, Tail, Hooded head, Ear ×2, Hood trim, Face, Arm ×2 (91 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 9 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 71 carreiras feitas

  14. Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 20 rounds.
  15. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  6. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 10 rounds.
  7. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. A flat oval about 4.1 × 2.9 cm; 4 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With oat: ch 5.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  23. Size before assembly: about 8.2 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 26 rounds.
  24. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  25. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  7. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  8. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  9. → This piece is not stuffed.
  10. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–3 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 3.1 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 4–6 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 33 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  8. A flat oval about 7.1 × 5.1 cm; 7 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  9. With oat: ch 7.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  7. A flat oval about 6 × 4.4 cm; 6 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  8. With skin: ch 6.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Do not stuff.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 8 rounds.
  6. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10 mm (on the face): in round 2, 9 st apart (count along round 2: about 4.6 st each side of the centre top line).
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the face), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Blush about 10 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the face, both sides): between rounds 3 and 4, 3 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left . Colour pink.
  • Fringe (on the face): cut 12 pieces of yarn (dark brown) about 32 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 4, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right -> in round 4, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right -> in round 4, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left -> in round 4, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 6 mm.

Onesie body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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    • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done