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Catálogo / Animales

Spotted Pony patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 99 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesAnimales

Dificultad
3/3
Tiempo
~4 h
Tamaño
13.8 cm
Rareza
1/5
TejerloHacer un remix
Descargar PDF gratis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

This free crochet horse pattern makes a chibi spotted pony that sits on short legs with a big round head and dark little hooves. The amigurumi pony is white with chestnut patches, one of them around an eye, and has a soft peachy muzzle with a smile, pink-lined ears and a long brown yarn mane, forelock and tail. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and sits about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall; the spots are color changes, the hair is knotted yarn strands, and the eyes are 12 mm safety eyes. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every piece goes.

Cómo tejer Spotted Pony a crochet

Avanzado · 14 cm de alto · unas 4 h · hilo DK · ganchillo de 2.5 mm

  1. Teje las 14 piezas en vueltas: Body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Front leg with hoof ×2, Haunch (applique) ×2, Hind leg with hoof ×2, Tail base (103 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 9 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

0 de 12 reunidos

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Muestra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 90 vueltas hechas

  18. Size before assembly: about 8 cm at the widest, 4.5 cm long; 17 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  19. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  31. Size before assembly: about 8.8 cm at the widest, 7.8 cm long; 30 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  32. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  33. Press the piece flat to about 7.9 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 10 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  6. Size before assembly: an oval about 4.7 × 3.1 cm at the widest, 3.2 cm long; 10 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  7. With muzzle: ch 6.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  8. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 8 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 3.7 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 32 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  9. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 3.9 cm long; 12 rounds.
  10. Change to snow (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 35° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, on the centre front line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 6 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 4 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  10. A flat circle about 3.8 cm across; 5 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre top line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  11. For the right piece (on the toy's right) these rounds differ in colour (all other rounds as above):
  12. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  9. Size before assembly: about 2.8 cm at the widest, 3.1 cm long; 10 rounds.
  10. Change to snow (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12 mm (on the head): in round 14, 11 st apart (count along round 14: about 5.7 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in nostril thread, a oval about 3.5 mm wide and 5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 2 and 3, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
  • Embroidery in nostril thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 1 and 2, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Strands (mane) (on the head): cut 30 pieces of yarn (mane) about 80 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 5, on the centre front line -> in round 2, on the centre front line -> in round 1, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 3, on the centre back line -> in round 8, on the centre back line -> in round 13, on the centre back line -> in round 18, on the centre back line -> in round 23, on the centre back line, evenly spaced. Trim to about 30 mm.
  • Fringe (on the head): cut 9 pieces of yarn (mane) about 64 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 5 and 6, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 6 and 7, on the centre front line -> between rounds 5 and 6, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 22 mm.
  • Strands (mane) (on the tail base): cut 16 pieces of yarn (mane) about 120 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line -> between rounds 1 and 2, 1.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line -> between rounds 1 and 2, 1.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line , evenly spaced. Trim to about 50 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
  • Curling the strands: Soft waves: untwist each strand into its plies and brush lightly.

Body · R1–R3

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×

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    • V×V×V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviaturas

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done