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Catalog / Food

Croissant Crab crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 85 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineFood

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~3 h
Size
8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet croissant pattern: a Croissant Crab amigurumi, about 8 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A golden layered croissant stands on little legs with two small red claws, round stalk eyes and a proud smile. You need about 85 m of yarn: 30 m light orange, 25 m gold, 20 m red, 5 m cream and 5 m coral. Plan on roughly 3 hours. A cheerful bakery-café gift or shelf decoration for anyone who loves pastries and crabs. Spin the 3D model to see how the croissant layers curl, then follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Croissant Crab

Advanced · 8 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 23 pieces in rounds: Middle segment, Croissant segment ×2, Small croissant segment ×2, Croissant tip ×2, Eye stalk ×2, Eye bump ×2, Leg ×2, Cheek ×2, Arm ×2, Claw palm ×2, Claw finger ×4 (85 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 23 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 10 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 71 rounds done

  15. Size before assembly: about 5.6 cm at the widest, 3.9 cm long; 17 rounds.
  16. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  17. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  13. Size before assembly: about 4.5 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 13 rounds.
  14. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  15. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  11. Size before assembly: about 3.5 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 10 rounds.
  12. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  13. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  8. → Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  9. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  4. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 7 rounds.
  8. Change to light orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  9. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  10. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  11. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 55° around round 2<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 2, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 2.64 left -->). On the inner side draw rounds 2 and 3 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  4. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  8. Size before assembly: about 2.6 cm at the widest, 2.3 cm long; 8 rounds.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. Of these: upper, left — 1; lower, left — 1; upper, right — 1; lower, right — 1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 6 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 30° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right <!-- st 0.51 right -->). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 5 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Embroidery in cocoa thread (on the middle segment), straight stitches through: (in round 7, 11.5 st from the centre top line, toward the front ) → (in round 8, 12.5 st from the centre top line, toward the front ) → (in round 9, 13 st from the centre top line, toward the front ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 12.5 st from the centre top line, toward the front ) → (in round 11, 11.5 st from the centre top line, toward the front ).
  • Safety eye with a printed glint 9 mm (on the eye bump): in round 1, on the centre top line.
  • Safety eye with a printed glint 9 mm (on the no. 2 eye bump): in round 1, on the centre top line.

Middle segment · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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    • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done