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Catalog / Animals

Goat Christmas Ornament crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 58 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

Difficulty
1/3
Time
~2 h
Size
5.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet goat pattern: a Goat Christmas Ornament amigurumi, about 6 cm tall in fingering yarn with a 2 mm hook. A round white goat with a small cream muzzle set into its face, a tiny chin beard, short curved grey horns, floppy ears, dark hooves and a red-and-white striped scarf looks out in surprise, with a gold loop on its head for hanging. You need about 50 m of yarn: 15 m cream, 5 m red, 5 m grey, 5 m charcoal, 5 m beige, 5 m soft gold, 5 m blush pink and 5 m white. Plan on roughly 2 hours. It is made to hang on a Christmas tree or a window, and it also makes a sweet small gift for goat lovers or for anyone born in a goat year. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Goat Christmas Ornament

Beginner-friendly · 6 cm tall · about 2 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 15 pieces in rounds: Mochi ball, Horn ×2, Ear ×2, Hanging loop, Muzzle, Beard, Cheek ×2, Scarf tail, Hoof ×4 (58 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 10 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 13 gathered

RemixCrochet it

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 51 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.3 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 19 rounds.
  2. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  3. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  4. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  5. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  6. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  7. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  8. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  9. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 125° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 5 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces backward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, 0.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 0.55 left -->). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 7 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 0.8 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 10 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 40 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest (lies flat); 2 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in soft gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 16 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.7 × 1.4 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With beige: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.5 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly, then press the piece slightly flat (oval cross-section; flattened 40 %).

  1. A flat circle about 1.1 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1 × 0.4 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 7 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With red: ch 4.
  3. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  4. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  5. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Press the piece flat (the opening becomes a straight line), front and back walls together.<!-- flattened 90 % -->

  1. Of these: front — 2 (left and right); back — 2 (left and right). Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 6 mm (on the mochi ball): between rounds 12 and 13, 9 st apart (count along round 12: about 4.4 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark brown thread, a oval about 3.2 mm wide and 2.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark brown thread, a oval about 3 mm wide and 2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line .
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the mochi ball) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 15, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 16, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 15, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

Mochi ball · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
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    V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done