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Catalog / Food

Hot Dog Dachshund crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 150 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineFood

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~7 h
Size
9.3 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet dachshund pattern for a long, low sausage pup lying in a split hot dog bun with a bold mustard zigzag down its back. This amigurumi dachshund rests its head forward on its tan paws between the two golden bun halves, with floppy dark ears, big glossy eyes and a tan muzzle. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and is about 9 cm (3.5 in) tall and 19 cm (7.5 in) long; the head, ears, paws, tail and bun halves are sewn on, and the mustard is a crocheted chain stitched along the back. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every piece goes.

How to crochet the Hot Dog Dachshund

Advanced · 9 cm tall · about 7 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 12 pieces in rounds: Body, Bun half ×2, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Paw ×2, Tail, Cheek ×2 (150 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 8 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 80 rounds done

  19. Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 13.6 cm long; 41 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre top line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  20. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  21. Press the piece flat to about 4.1 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 30 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  15. Size before assembly: about 5.6 cm at the widest, 13.5 cm long; 43 rounds.
  16. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  17. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  20. Size before assembly: about 7.2 cm at the widest, 5.4 cm long; 22 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  21. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  22. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 12 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.5 × 1.9 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 8 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With tan: ch 6.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  12. Size before assembly: about 4.1 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 15 rounds.
  13. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 3.8 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 41 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) --> Bend ≈ 90° around round 13<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds --><!-- drape relax_mm 6 twist 1 -->. The piece is soft and unstuffed: do not tack a fold. Sewn on as the assembly says, it bends over the head by itself and hangs down; the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 13, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the back <!-- st 0.99 back -->). If the ear sticks out, smooth it down along the head by hand.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 7 rounds.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 4.1 cm long; 12 rounds.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 40° around round 8<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 8, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 8 and 9 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12 mm (on the head): between rounds 12 and 13, 9 st apart (count along round 12: about 4.7 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in tan thread, a oval about 7 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches, turned 12° anticlockwise (looking at that surface); centred in round 9, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Safety nose, oval, 10×7.5 mm (on the muzzle): between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line. Colour nose #1f1b1a.
  • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line).
  • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line) → (in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Strap (on the body): with mustard, ch 133 (≈ 39.7 cm); for a firmer strap sl st back along it. Sew it along (in round 6, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 8 and 9, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right) → (in round 11, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 13 and 14, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right) → (in round 16, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right) → (in round 21, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 23 and 24, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right) → (in round 26, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 28 and 29, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right) → (in round 31, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 33 and 34, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right), catching it every 2–3 ch.

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done