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Catalog / Fantasy

Little Jester Bunny crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 89 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineFantasy

Difficulty
2/3
Time
~3 h
Size
13.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A crochet amigurumi inspired by Kuromi from Sanrio: a cheeky bunny in a black jester hood with a pink skull and a devil tail. About 14 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF. Unofficial fan-made design, not affiliated with or endorsed by Sanrio.

How to crochet the Little Jester Bunny

Intermediate · 14 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 11 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Hood ear ×2, Skull emblem, Skull jaw, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Devil tail (89 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 8 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 8 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

RemixCrochet it

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 73 rounds done

  14. Size before assembly: about 6.6 cm at the widest, 4.1 cm long; 15 rounds.
  15. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  27. Size before assembly: about 8.7 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 27 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  28. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  29. Change to hood (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R23).
  30. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  14. Size before assembly: about 3.4 cm at the widest, 5.9 cm long; 17 rounds.
  15. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 2.2 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 34 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 30 %) --> Bend ≈ 70° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 3.45 left -->). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 7 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 4 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  4. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat oval about 2.2 × 1.4 cm; 2 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  4. With skull: ch 4.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  6. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.3 cm long; 7 rounds.
  7. Change to hood (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 7 rounds.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  6. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 11 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 70° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 5 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Satin stitch (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in black thread, a oval about 5.5 mm wide and 7.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 16, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the head): in white thread, a oval about 1.8 mm wide and 2.1 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 15 and 16, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the head): in white thread, a oval about 1.8 mm wide and 2.1 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 15 and 16, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
  • Satin stitch (on the head): in nose thread, a oval about 5.5 mm wide and 3.8 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line .
  • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (in round 19, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 19 and 20, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 20, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 19 and 20, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Blush about 8 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): in round 18, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Colour blush.
  • Satin stitch (on the skull emblem): in black thread, a oval about 4.2 mm wide and 4.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the skull emblem): in black thread, a oval about 4.2 mm wide and 4.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right .
  • Satin stitch (on the skull emblem): in black thread, a triangle about 2.4 mm wide and 2.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre front line .
  • Embroidery in black thread (on the skull jaw), straight stitches through: (in round 1, 2 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 1 and 2, 2 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in black thread (on the skull jaw), straight stitches through: (in round 1, 2 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 1 and 2, 2 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    Make this toy yours

    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
    Open in the 3D editorTurn a photo into a crochet pattern
    ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done