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Catalog / Sea creatures

Offended Puffed-Up Pufferfish crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 50 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineSea creatures

Difficulty
2/3
Time
~2 h
Size
7.8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet pufferfish pattern: an Offended Puffed-Up Pufferfish amigurumi, about 8 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. The round yellow fish has orange spikes, a pale belly, rosy cheeks, a small dark red pursed mouth and frowning brows, with its orange fins folded in front like crossed arms. You need about 60 m of yarn: 20 m yellow, 20 m orange, 10 m light yellow, 5 m pink and 5 m dark red. Plan on roughly 2 hours. Easy to make in an afternoon, it is a fun gift for anyone with a grumpy streak or a love of sea creatures. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Offended Puffed-Up Pufferfish

Intermediate · 8 cm tall · about 2 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 21 pieces in rounds: Ball body, Lips, Tail fin, Spike ×14, Cheek ×2, Crossed fin arm ×2 (50 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 7 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 10 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 42 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 25 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre top line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–2 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 2.4 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 3–4 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 21 mm across.<!-- (dish 70 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 10 mm thick.<!-- flattened 60 % -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Of these: no. 1 — 1; low — 1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 3.1 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 8 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 35 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the ball body): in round 22, 7 st apart (count along round 22: about 3.5 st each side of the centre top line).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the ball body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 22, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 20, 4 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 18, 6.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the lips), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 1 and 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).

Ball body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done