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Catalog / Animals

Sleepy Bear in a Nightcap crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 119 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~4 h
Size
15.2 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free sleepy crochet bear pattern for a grey-blue teddy with closed embroidered eyes, a striped nightcap and a little yellow star. The lavender and cream nightcap droops to one side with a fluffy pom-pom, and this amigurumi bear has a cream muzzle, round ears with cream centers and pink cheeks. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook; the face is fully embroidered, the cap is a long cone bent with a few stitches, the star is sewn to one paw, and the bear sits about 15 cm (6 in) tall. Follow the row-by-row pattern with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see every piece.

How to crochet the Sleepy Bear in a Nightcap

Advanced · 15 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 17 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Nightcap, Pompom, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Leg ×2, Foot pad ×2, Arm ×2, Tail, Cheek ×2, Star (121 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 12 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

RemixCrochet it

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 103 rounds done

  14. Size before assembly: about 6.7 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 17 rounds.
  15. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  23. Size before assembly: about 8.2 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 26 rounds.
  24. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  25. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  27. Size before assembly: about 6.5 cm at the widest, 9.6 cm long; 27 rounds.
  28. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  29. Change to lavender (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  30. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  31. Change to lavender (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  32. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  33. Change to lavender (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  34. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  35. Change to lavender (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R24).
  36. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R26).
  37. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 120° around round 12<!-- the bend spreads over 7 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 12, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 4.02 left -->). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 9 to round 15, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 6 rounds) and fasten off inside.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 7 rounds.
  8. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  9. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 3 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With oat: ch 4.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  8. Change to slate (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  9. → This piece is not stuffed.
  10. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–3 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 3.1 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 4–6 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 33 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  9. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  4. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  8. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 3.6 cm long; 11 rounds.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. Flat motif — star (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 3.3 × 3.5 cm; 2 rows.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 14, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 15, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 14, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in charcoal thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done