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Catálogo / Animales

Cat in Shark Slippers patrón de crochet

  • Equilibrado matemáticamenteComprobado por script: en las 93 vueltas los aumentos y disminuciones cuadran con el número de puntos.

por el generador de patronesAnimales

Dificultad
3/3
Tiempo
~3 h
Tamaño
10.4 cm
Rareza
1/5
TejerloHacer un remix
Descargar PDF gratis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiales, cada vuelta con casilla, montaje y cara

Free crochet cat pattern: a Cat in Shark Slippers amigurumi, about 10 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A grey cat with a white muzzle and happy closed eyes sits with its feet in two blue shark slippers that have fins, black eyes and white teeth. You need about 100 m of yarn: 50 m grey, 20 m blue, 10 m white, 5 m dark grey, 5 m dark blue, 5 m light pink and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 3 hours. A silly little gift for cat owners and shark fans alike. Rotate the 3D model to see the slippers from every side, then crochet it round by round.

Cómo tejer Cat in Shark Slippers a crochet

Avanzado · 10 cm de alto · unas 3 h · hilo DK · ganchillo de 2.5 mm

  1. Teje las 14 piezas en vueltas: Body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Front paw ×2, Shark slipper ×2, Fin ×2, Tail, Cheek ×2 (93 vueltas en total).
  2. Rellénalo y móntalo en 9 pasos; cada uno se ilumina en el modelo 3D donde va.
  3. Haz la cara: ojos de seguridad por vuelta y punto, o bordados para menores de 3 años.

Cada vuelta con su número de puntos está en la pestaña Patrón de abajo y en el PDF gratis para imprimir.

Qué necesitas

Marca las cosas a medida que las reúnes.

0 de 12 reunidos

RemixTejerlo

Muestra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Cómo se teje

Vueltas continuas en espiral. No cierres las vueltas. Sube el marcador en cada vuelta.

Piezas

Idioma del patrónenrudefrDescargar PDF gratis para imprimirPDF
0 de 69 vueltas hechas

  10. Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 13 rounds.
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  21. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 25 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  22. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  23. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  24. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.7 × 1.9 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With white: ch 4.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  8. Size before assembly: about 3.5 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 7 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 4 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 35 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  12. Size before assembly: an oval about 4.7 × 3.9 cm at the widest, 4.3 cm long; 14 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is at a turn of the oval, on the piece's centre line; R1 starts there, so no shift is needed. The increases fall on the turns. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre top line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  13. With blue: ch 4.
  14. colours of round 1 in order: 2 sc in blue, 4 sc in white, 2 sc in blue
  15. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  16. Press the piece flat to about 3.1 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 35 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 16 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 6 mm thick.<!-- flattened 60 % -->

  9. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 6.4 cm long; 18 rounds.
  10. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  11. Change to dark grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  12. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  13. Change to dark grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  14. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  15. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 100° around round 8<!-- the bend spreads over 5 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 8, 1.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 1.59 left -->). On the inner side draw rounds 6 and 9 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 12 and 13, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 12 and 13, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in hot pink thread, a triangle about 6 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the shark slipper) (2: one on each shark slipper; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in black thread, a oval about 3.5 mm wide and 3.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the left shark slipper): in dark pink thread, a oval about 12 mm wide and 3 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre bottom line .
  • Satin stitch (on the left shark slipper): in white thread, a triangle about 4.4 mm wide and 4.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the left shark slipper): in white thread, a triangle about 4.4 mm wide and 4.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the left shark slipper): in white thread, a triangle about 4.4 mm wide and 4.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right .
  • Satin stitch (on the left shark slipper): in white thread, a triangle about 4.4 mm wide and 4.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right .

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviaturas

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done