Patrón de Mini Highland Cow Keychain fácil a crochet (PDF gratis)

R1with ginger: 6 sc in MR(6)
R2inc ×6(12)
R3(1 sc, inc) ×6(18)
R41 sc, (inc, 2 sc) ×5, inc, 1 sc(24)
R5(3 sc, inc) ×6(30)
R62 sc, (inc, 4 sc) ×5, inc, 2 sc(36)
R7(5 sc, inc) ×6(42)
R83 sc, (inc, 6 sc) ×5, inc, 3 sc(48)
R9(BLO)48 sc(48)
R10–1448 sc(48)
R15(6 sc, dec) ×6(42)
R163 sc, (dec, 5 sc) ×5, dec, 2 sc(36)
R17(4 sc, dec) ×6(30)
R182 sc, (dec, 3 sc) ×5, dec, 1 sc(24)
R19(2 sc, dec) ×6(18)
R20(1 sc, dec) ×6(12)
R21dec ×6(6)
Size before assembly: about 4.9 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 21 rounds.
→ Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

R1starting in the 2nd ch from hook: sc 2, 3 sc in the last ch; continue along the other side of the chain: sc 1, 2 sc in the last ch (the one you made the first sc in)(8)
R2(inc ×3, 1 sc) ×2(14)
R31 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc(20)
R4–520 sc(20)
Size before assembly: an oval about 2.3 × 1.7 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
With muzzle pink: ch 4.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

R1with horn cream: 4 sc in MR(4)
R22 sc, inc, 1 sc(5)
R34 sc, inc(6)
R43 sc, inc, 2 sc(7)
R56 sc, inc(8)
R6–88 sc(8)
R96 sc, dec(7)
R103 sc, dec, 2 sc(6)
Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 10 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 70° around round 4. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre front line, upward ). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 5 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

R1with ginger: 5 sc in MR(5)
R2inc ×4, 1 sc(9)
R33 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 1 sc(11)
R4–611 sc(11)
R73 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 1 sc(9)
Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 7 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 1 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 12 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.

R1with blush pink: 5 sc in MR(5)
R2inc ×5(10)
A flat circle about 1 cm across; 2 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

Safety eyes with a printed glint 6 mm (on the head ball): in round 14, 8 st apart (count along round 14: about 4 st each side of the centre front line).
Satin stitch (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in rose thread, a oval about 2.4 mm wide and 3.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
Fringe (on the head ball): cut 12 pieces of yarn (rust, ginger) about 48 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 21, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 20 and 21, on the centre front line -> in round 21, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left, evenly spaced. Trim to about 14 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
Fringe (on the head ball): cut 14 pieces of yarn (rust, ginger) about 46 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 19 and 20, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 19, on the centre front line -> between rounds 19 and 20, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 13 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
Fringe (on the head ball): cut 11 pieces of yarn (rust, ginger) about 42 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 18, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line -> in round 18, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 11 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
Mane (on the head ball): cut 10 pieces of yarn (rust, ginger) about 44 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 21, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 21, on the centre back line -> in round 21, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 12 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
Curling the strands: Curls: before knotting, wrap the pieces tightly in a spiral around a knitting needle or a wooden skewer (3–4 mm), tape the ends, dampen (or steam with an iron held above, not touching) and let them dry completely on the needle; slide them off and they stay curly. For fluffy waves instead, untwist each strand into its plies and brush lightly. Note: instead of knotted strands the fringe can be worked as loop stitches along the rounds — an alternative that is not part of this pattern's stitch counts.