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Mini Highland Cow Keychain receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 45 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
1/3
Tempo
~2 h
Tamanho
5 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

A free crochet highland cow pattern for a tiny ginger cow head keychain with shaggy fringe bangs and cream horns. This amigurumi highland cow has a wide pink muzzle, coral cheeks, little sideways ears and a brown chain loop on top, so it clips to keys or a bag. It is worked in the round in single crochet with fingering yarn and a 2 mm hook, ends up about 5 cm (2 in) tall, and the bangs are curled yarn strands knotted on, with safety eyes and a sewn muzzle. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where the horns, ears and fringe go.

Como fazer Mini Highland Cow Keychain de crochê

Para iniciantes · 5 cm de altura · cerca de 2 h · fio fingering · agulha de 2 mm

  1. Faça as 8 partes em carreiras: Head ball, Muzzle, Horn ×2, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2 (45 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 6 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

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  • Prévia de Winnie-the-Pooh with a Honey Pot
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    Winnie-the-Pooh with a Honey Pot

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 36 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.9 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.3 × 1.7 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With muzzle pink: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 70° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 5 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre front line, upward <!-- st 1.63 up -->). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 5 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 1 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 12 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 40 %) -->

  1. A flat circle about 1 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 6 mm (on the head ball): in round 14, 8 st apart (count along round 14: about 4 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in rose thread, a oval about 2.4 mm wide and 3.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
  • Fringe (on the head ball): cut 12 pieces of yarn (rust, ginger) about 48 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 21, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 20 and 21, on the centre front line -> in round 21, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left, evenly spaced. Trim to about 14 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Fringe (on the head ball): cut 14 pieces of yarn (rust, ginger) about 46 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 19 and 20, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 19, on the centre front line -> between rounds 19 and 20, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 13 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Fringe (on the head ball): cut 11 pieces of yarn (rust, ginger) about 42 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 18, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line -> in round 18, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 11 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Mane (on the head ball): cut 10 pieces of yarn (rust, ginger) about 44 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 21, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 21, on the centre back line -> in round 21, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 12 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Curling the strands: Curls: before knotting, wrap the pieces tightly in a spiral around a knitting needle or a wooden skewer (3–4 mm), tape the ends, dampen (or steam with an iron held above, not touching) and let them dry completely on the needle; slide them off and they stay curly. For fluffy waves instead, untwist each strand into its plies and brush lightly. Note: instead of knotted strands the fringe can be worked as loop stitches along the rounds — an alternative that is not part of this pattern's stitch counts.

Head ball · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done