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Catalog / Food

Bitten Gingerbread Man crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 55 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Food
Difficulty
1/3
Time
~2 h
Size
11.4 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet gingerbread pattern: a Bitten Gingerbread Man amigurumi, about 11 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. He is a brown gingerbread man with icing trim, a red bow, gumdrop buttons, wide shocked eyes and an open mouth, and one leg is just a pale bitten stump. You need about 60 m of yarn: 40 m light brown, 5 m pink, 5 m red, 5 m tan and 5 m green. Plan on roughly 2 hours. Make him as a tree ornament, a holiday table buddy or a gift for a baking fan. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern, including the short stump leg.

How to crochet the Bitten Gingerbread Man

Beginner-friendly · 11 cm tall · about 2 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 12 pieces in rounds: Body and head, Whole leg, Arm ×2, Green gumdrop button, Bow loop ×2, Bow knot, Red gumdrop button, Cheek ×2, Bitten leg stump (58 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 9 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 10 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 46 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 7 × 5.4 cm at the widest, 9.3 cm long; 30 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With light brown: ch 6.
  3. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Press the piece flat to about 4.9 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 30 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.9 cm at the widest, 2.3 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1 cm across; 1 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Flat motif — triangle (worked in turned rows, one layer of fabric), about 1.1 × 1.6 cm; 3 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. A flat circle about 0.8 cm across; 1 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1 cm across; 1 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

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    1. Body and head is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Whole leg → body and head. Centre: in round 2, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Flatten the opening (6 st against 6 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), across the rounds: rounds 1–5 of the body and head, about 9 st wide. It points down.
    1. Arm → body and head (make 2). Centre: in round 10, 10.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 9–11 of the body and head, about 6 st wide. It points outward.
    1. Green gumdrop button → body and head. Centre: in round 9, on the centre front line . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–10 of the body and head, about 2 st wide.
    1. Bow loop → body and head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–13 of the body and head, about 1 st wide.
    1. Bow knot → body and head. Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, on the centre front line . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–14 of the body and head, about 1 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 3 mm thick).
    1. Red gumdrop button → body and head. Centre: between rounds 5 and 6, on the centre front line . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 4–7 of the body and head, about 3 st wide.
    1. Cheek → body and head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 18 and 19, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 17–20 of the body and head, about 4 st wide.
    1. Bitten leg stump → body and head. Centre: in round 2, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 2–3 of the body and head, about 2 st wide. It points down and slightly outward and slightly forward.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the body and head): between rounds 20 and 21, 7 st apart (count along round 20: about 3.5 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Embroidery in icing white thread (on the arm) (2: one on each arm; the left one is described, the right is its mirror), straight stitches through: (in round 3, 2.5 st from the centre front line, upward ) → (in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre front line, upward) → (in round 3, 0.5 st from the centre front line, upward ) → (in round 4, on the centre front line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre front line, downward) → (in round 4, 2 st from the centre front line, downward ) → (in round 3, 2.5 st from the centre front line, downward ).
    • Embroidery in icing white thread (on the whole leg), straight stitches through: (in round 3, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 4, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 4, on the centre front line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Satin stitch (on the body and head): in black thread, a oval about 8 mm wide and 10 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line .
    • Embroidery in icing white thread (on the body and head), straight stitches through: (in round 23, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 23 and 24, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 23 and 24, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).
    • Embroidery in icing white thread (on the body and head), straight stitches through: (in round 23, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 23 and 24, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 23 and 24, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0