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Catalog / Plants

Mushroom Couple Cap to Cap crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 58 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Plants
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~4 h
Size
12.4 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet mushroom pattern: a Mushroom Couple Cap to Cap amigurumi, about 12 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. Two cream toadstools stand shoulder to shoulder and their red spotted caps lean together into one big heart, with a small pink heart tucked on top; one has round eyes, the other a happy squint. You need about 105 m of yarn: 45 m cream, 30 m red, 10 m beige, 10 m white, 5 m pink and 5 m blush. Plan on roughly 4 hours. Make it as a Valentine desk pair or a gift for a couple who loves cottagecore. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Mushroom Couple Cap to Cap

Intermediate · 12 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 15 pieces in rounds: Stem body ×2, Cap ×2, White dot ×4, Small dot ×2, Heart, Arm ×2, Cheek ×2 (60 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 15 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 47 rounds done

  1. Of these: base — 1; on the stem body — 1. Size before assembly: about 5 cm at the widest, 7.1 cm long; 24 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.9 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  3. → Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Flat motif — heart (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 2.8 × 2.8 cm; 2 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    1. Stem body (no. 1) is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Stem body (no. 2) → no. 1 stem body. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 7–22 of the no. 1 stem body, about 9 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 5 cm.
    1. Cap (no. 1) → no. 1 stem body. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 19–24 of the no. 1 stem body (all the way round). It points up and slightly outward. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Cap (no. 2) → no. 2 stem body. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 19–24 of the no. 2 stem body (all the way round). It points up and slightly inward. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. White dot (no. 1) → no. 1 cap. Centre: in round 8, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 5–11 of the no. 1 cap, about 5 st wide.
    1. White dot (no. 2) → no. 1 cap. Centre: in round 9, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 6–12 of the no. 1 cap, about 6 st wide.
    1. Small dot (no. 1) → no. 1 cap. Centre: in round 13, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–15 of the no. 1 cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. White dot (no. 3) → no. 2 cap. Centre: in round 8, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 5–11 of the no. 2 cap, about 5 st wide.
    1. White dot (no. 4) → no. 2 cap. Centre: in round 9, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 6–12 of the no. 2 cap, about 6 st wide.
    1. Small dot (no. 2) → no. 2 cap. Centre: in round 13, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–15 of the no. 2 cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Heart → no. 1 cap. Centre: in round 3, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its lowest edge; the seam covers rounds 3–4 of the no. 1 cap, about 1 st wide. It points up and outward.
    1. Arm (no. 1) → no. 1 stem body. Centre: in round 9, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right. Flatten the opening (3 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 8–10 of the no. 1 stem body, about 3 st wide. It points outward and down.
    1. Arm (no. 2) → no. 2 stem body. Centre: in round 9, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Flatten the opening (3 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 8–10 of the no. 2 stem body, about 3 st wide. It points outward and down.
    1. Cheek (no. 1) → no. 1 stem body. Centre: between rounds 9 and 10, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–11 of the no. 1 stem body, about 4 st wide.
    1. Cheek (no. 2) → no. 2 stem body. Centre: between rounds 9 and 10, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–11 of the no. 2 stem body, about 4 st wide.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eye with a printed glint 8 mm (on the no. 1 stem body): in round 10, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
    • Safety eye with a printed glint 8 mm (on the no. 1 stem body): in round 10, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Satin stitch (on the no. 1 stem body): in cocoa thread, a oval about 6 mm wide and 3.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 7 and 8, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
    • Embroidery in cocoa thread (on the no. 2 stem body), straight stitches through: (in round 10, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 11, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 11, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 10, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).
    • Embroidery in cocoa thread (on the no. 2 stem body), straight stitches through: (in round 10, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 11, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 11, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 10, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in cocoa thread (on the no. 2 stem body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 7 and 8, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 7, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 7 and 8, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

    Stem body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    2/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0