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Catalog / Plants

Christmas Wreath with a Face crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 11 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Plants
Difficulty
1/3
Time
~2 h
Size
9.5 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet wreath pattern: a Christmas Wreath with a Face amigurumi, about 10 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A frilly green wreath with dark green stripes wears a big red bow on top, red berries and gold bells around the ring, and a winking face at the bottom. You need about 45 m of yarn: 15 m green, 10 m dark green, 5 m gold, 5 m red, 5 m rose and 5 m dark red. Plan on roughly 2 hours. Hang it on the tree or a door handle as a friendly wreath that smiles back, or give it to someone who decorates early. Rotate the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern as you work.

How to crochet the Christmas Wreath with a Face

Beginner-friendly · 10 cm tall · about 2 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 15 pieces in rounds: Wreath ring, Cheek ×2, Hanging loop, Bow loop ×2, Bow knot, Berry ×4, Bell ×4 (28 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 13 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 28 rounds done

  18. Size before assembly: about 8 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 17 rounds.
  19. Change to dark green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  20. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  21. Change to dark green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  22. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  23. Change to dark green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  24. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  25. Change to dark green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  26. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  27. Change to dark green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  28. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  29. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 0.7 cm long; 2 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  4. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 16 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

  4. A flat oval about 2.6 × 2.2 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  5. With red: ch 3.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat oval about 2.3 × 1.5 cm; 2 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running front to back. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  4. With dark red: ch 4.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  2. A flat circle about 0.8 cm across; 1 rounds.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  2. A flat circle about 0.8 cm across; 1 rounds.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    1. Wreath ring is the base; its magic ring is at the back.
    1. Cheek → wreath ring (make 2). Centre: between rounds 10 and 11, 6.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 9–12 of the wreath ring, about 4 st wide.
    1. Hanging loop → wreath ring. Centre: between rounds 7 and 8, on the centre top line. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 3 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 9–10 of the wreath ring, about 1 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Bow loop → wreath ring (make 2). Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 10–15 of the wreath ring, about 6 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 3 mm thick).
    1. Bow knot → wreath ring. Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, on the centre top line . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 10–15 of the wreath ring, about 4 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 3 mm thick).
    1. Berry (no. 1) → wreath ring. Centre: between rounds 15 and 16, 7 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 15–16 of the wreath ring, about 1 st wide.
    1. Berry (no. 2) → wreath ring. Centre: in round 13, 11.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–14 of the wreath ring, about 2 st wide.
    1. Berry (no. 3) → wreath ring. Centre: in round 15, 10.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 14–16 of the wreath ring, about 2 st wide.
    1. Berry (no. 4) → wreath ring. Centre: between rounds 16 and 17, 4.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 16–17 of the wreath ring, about 2 st wide.
    1. Bell (no. 1) → wreath ring. Centre: in round 14, 9 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 13–15 of the wreath ring, about 2 st wide.
    1. Bell (no. 2) → wreath ring. Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, 14.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–13 of the wreath ring, about 2 st wide.
    1. Bell (no. 3) → wreath ring. Centre: in round 15, 11 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 14–16 of the wreath ring, about 2 st wide.
    1. Bell (no. 4) → wreath ring. Centre: between rounds 16 and 17, 4.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 16–17 of the wreath ring, about 2 st wide.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the wreath ring), straight stitches through: (between rounds 11 and 12, 2.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 11, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 10, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 11, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 2.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
    • Safety eye with a printed glint 12 mm (on the wreath ring): in round 15, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left .
    • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the wreath ring), straight stitches through: (in round 15, 2.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 2.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 15, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
    • Satin stitch (on the wreath ring): in pink thread, a oval about 5 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 12 and 13, on the centre bottom line .

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    2/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0