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Catálogo / Plantas

Sad Mushroom with Raincloud receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 128 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasPlantas

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~5 h
Tamanho
19.8 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet mushroom pattern: a Sad Mushroom with Raincloud amigurumi, about 20 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. The mushroom has a brown spotted cap tipped forward, a cream stem, a worried face with tiny tears, and a small grey raincloud held above its head with drops falling from it. You need about 140 m of yarn: 35 m cream, 35 m grey, 30 m brown, 15 m beige, 10 m tan, 5 m blue, 5 m light blue and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 5 hours. A funny gift for a friend having a rainy day, or a moody desk buddy that is still very cute. Rotate the 3D model and follow the pattern round by round.

Como fazer Sad Mushroom with Raincloud de crochê

Avançado · 20 cm de altura · cerca de 5 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 22 partes em carreiras: Stem body, Cap, Dot ×5, Small dot ×2, Arm ×2, Foot ×2, Cheek ×2, Cloud stalk, Raincloud, Cloud puff, Small cloud puff ×2, Raindrop ×2 (128 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 19 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 102 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.8 cm at the widest, 7.8 cm long; 28 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 9.8 cm at the widest, 5.8 cm long; 30 rounds.
  2. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
  3. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Of these: top — 1; front — 1; side — 2 (left and right); back — 1. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.3 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.5 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 7.1 × 4.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 14 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 4 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With grey: ch 9.
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Press the piece flat to about 5.7 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 20 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 18 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.5 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 13 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 4 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 12 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.1 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 2.3 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 25 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 4 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the stem body): between rounds 12 and 13, 6 st apart (count along round 12: about 3.2 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the stem body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 14, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 15, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 15 and 16, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the stem body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 9 and 10, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, on the centre front line) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 9 and 10, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the stem body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in light blue thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 11, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .

Stem body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done