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Catalog / Plants

Sad Mushroom with Raincloud crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 128 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Plants
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~5 h
Size
19.8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet mushroom pattern: a Sad Mushroom with Raincloud amigurumi, about 20 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. The mushroom has a brown spotted cap tipped forward, a cream stem, a worried face with tiny tears, and a small grey raincloud held above its head with drops falling from it. You need about 140 m of yarn: 35 m cream, 35 m grey, 30 m brown, 15 m beige, 10 m tan, 5 m blue, 5 m light blue and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 5 hours. A funny gift for a friend having a rainy day, or a moody desk buddy that is still very cute. Rotate the 3D model and follow the pattern round by round.

How to crochet the Sad Mushroom with Raincloud

Advanced · 20 cm tall · about 5 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 22 pieces in rounds: Stem body, Cap, Dot ×5, Small dot ×2, Arm ×2, Foot ×2, Cheek ×2, Cloud stalk, Raincloud, Cloud puff, Small cloud puff ×2, Raindrop ×2 (128 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 19 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 13 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 102 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.8 cm at the widest, 7.8 cm long; 28 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 9.8 cm at the widest, 5.8 cm long; 30 rounds.
  2. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
  3. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Of these: top — 1; front — 1; side — 2 (left and right); back — 1. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.3 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.5 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 7.1 × 4.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 14 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 4 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With grey: ch 9.
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Press the piece flat to about 5.7 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 20 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 18 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.5 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 13 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 4 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 12 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.1 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 2.3 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 25 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 4 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

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    1. Stem body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Cap → stem body. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 18–28 of the stem body (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 2.4 cm.
    1. Dot (top) → cap. Centre: in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 1–7 of the cap, about 7 st wide.
    1. Dot (front) → cap. Centre: in round 13, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 10–16 of the cap, about 5 st wide.
    1. Dot (side) → cap (make 2). Centre: in round 14, 14 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 11–17 of the cap, about 6 st wide.
    1. Dot (back) → cap. Centre: in round 11, 1.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–14 of the cap, about 5 st wide.
    1. Small dot (no. 1) → cap. Centre: in round 9, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 7–11 of the cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Small dot (no. 2) → cap. Centre: in round 8, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 6–10 of the cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Arm → stem body (make 2). Centre: in round 11, 10.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: round 11 of the stem body, about 3 st wide. It points outward and down.
    1. Foot → stem body (make 2). Centre: in round 4, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (8 st); the seam covers rounds 3–5 of the stem body, about 3 st wide. It points forward and outward and slightly down.
    1. Cheek → stem body (make 2). Centre: in round 11, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 9–13 of the stem body, about 3 st wide.
    1. Cloud stalk → cap. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew around the opening (4 st); the seam covers round 1 of the cap (around the magic ring). It points up.
    1. Raincloud → cloud stalk. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches round 2 of the cloud stalk (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Cloud puff → raincloud. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 10–14 of the raincloud (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Small cloud puff → raincloud (make 2). Centre: in round 8, 12 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 5–13 of the raincloud, about 9 st wide. It points up and outward. Press it into the base by about 10 mm.
    1. String (left): with light blue, ch 5 (≈ 14 mm), then sl st back along the chain starting in the 2nd ch from hook. Sew its start to the raincloud: in round 4, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left.
    1. Raindrop (left) → raincloud. Centre: in round 4, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches round 3 of the raincloud, about 1 st wide. It points down.
    1. Long string (right): with light blue, ch 8 (≈ 24 mm), then sl st back along the chain starting in the 2nd ch from hook. Sew its start to the raincloud: in round 4, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right.
    1. Raindrop (right) → raincloud. Centre: in round 4, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches round 2 of the raincloud, about 1 st wide. It points down.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the stem body): between rounds 12 and 13, 6 st apart (count along round 12: about 3.2 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the stem body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 14, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 15, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 15 and 16, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the stem body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 9 and 10, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, on the centre front line) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 9 and 10, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Satin stitch (on the stem body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in light blue thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 11, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .

    Stem body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    2/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0