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Alpaca in a Christmas Sweater receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 72 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~3 h
Tamanho
13.9 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet alpaca pattern: an Alpaca in a Christmas Sweater amigurumi, about 14 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A cream alpaca with a fluffy head tuft and a toothy smile wears a red turtleneck sweater with a white band and snowflakes. You need about 90 m of yarn: 25 m red, 35 m cream, 10 m white, 5 m taupe, 5 m ivory, 5 m pink and 5 m dusty pink. Plan on roughly 3 hours. It is a cheerful shelf friend or a gift for anyone who collects woolly animals. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

Como fazer Alpaca in a Christmas Sweater de crochê

Avançado · 14 cm de altura · cerca de 3 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 27 partes em carreiras: Body in sweater, Head and neck, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Hoof ×4, Tail, Cheek ×2, Fluffy bobble ×13, Snowflake ×2 (74 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 10 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

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0 de 59 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.8 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 24 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre top line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  3. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  4. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  5. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  6. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  7. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.9 cm at the widest, 7.2 cm long; 22 rounds.
  2. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  3. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  4. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  5. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R20).
  6. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.4 × 1.6 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With ivory: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 2.6 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 23 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Of these: front — 2 (left and right); hind — 2 (left and right). Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.8 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Of these: top — 1; no. 2 — 1; no. 3 — 1; no. 4 — 1; no. 5 — 1; no. 6 — 1; no. 7 — 1; no. 8 — 1; no. 9 — 1; no. 10 — 1; no. 11 — 1; no. 12 — 1; no. 13 — 1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Flat motif — star (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 3.2 × 2.8 cm; 2 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the head and neck): in round 8, 6 st apart (count along round 8: about 3.1 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in ink thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 3.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches, turned 25° clockwise (looking at that surface); centred between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
  • Embroidery in ink thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in ink thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in white thread in several layers so it stands out, a oval about 3.8 mm wide and 5.4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, on the centre bottom line .

Body in sweater · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done