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Catálogo / Animais

Electric Yellow Mouse receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 86 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
2/3
Tempo
~3 h
Tamanho
13.7 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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Baixar PDF grátis para imprimir

PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

A crochet amigurumi inspired by Pikachu from Pokémon: a yellow mouse with black-tipped ears, red cheeks and a lightning tail. About 14 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF. Unofficial fan-made design, not affiliated with or endorsed by Pokémon.

Como fazer Electric Yellow Mouse de crochê

Intermediário · 14 cm de altura · cerca de 3 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 11 partes em carreiras: Body, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Foot ×2, Tail base, Tail bolt, Cheek ×2 (86 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 7 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

Marque os itens conforme for separando.

0 de 9 separados

Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Mais como este

Todas as receitas de amigurumi ratinho →Tudo em animais →
  • Prévia de Winnie-the-Pooh with a Honey Pot
    Gerador
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    Winnie-the-Pooh with a Honey Pot

    pelo gerador de receitas

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Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 60 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 8.7 cm long; 31 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.9 cm at the widest, 5.8 cm long; 17 rounds.
  2. Change to lemon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 2.1 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 29 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 35 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 8 mm thick.<!-- flattened 50 % -->

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.7 × 1.3 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 13 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With stripe: ch 3.
  3. Change to lemon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  4. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  5. Press the piece flat to about 4 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 75 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Bend ≈ 80° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, 3 st from the line on the toy's left side, upward). On the inner side draw rounds 6 and 7 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.8 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 14 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the back of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With lemon: ch 6.
  3. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Press the piece flat to about 6 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 85 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Bend ≈ 70° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, 6 st from the line on the toy's left side, downward). On the inner side draw rounds 6 and 7 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 6 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 14 mm (on the body): between rounds 20 and 21, 7 st apart (count along round 20: about 3.5 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the body): in tipblack thread, a oval about 3.5 mm wide and 2.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 19, on the centre front line.
  • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 18 and 19, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 18, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    Esquisitice
    1/5
    Vezes feito
    0
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  • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done