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Chibi Bear in Overalls receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 86 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~3 h
Tamanho
13.4 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

A free crochet teddy bear pattern for a chibi bear with a huge round head, tiny body and a pair of yellow overalls. This amigurumi bear has big glossy eyes, rosy cheeks, a cream T-shirt under the mustard bib and a little red heart pocket on the chest. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and stands about 13 cm (5 in) tall; the overalls are crocheted separately and the head, arms and legs are sewn on. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see how the pants, bib and straps sit on the body.

Como fazer Chibi Bear in Overalls de crochê

Avançado · 13 cm de altura · cerca de 3 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 16 partes em carreiras: Body, Overall pants, Head, Heart pocket, Button ×2, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Foot pad ×2, Tail (88 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 12 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 70 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.9 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 16 rounds.
  2. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.1 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.4 cm at the widest, 6.9 cm long; 28 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Flat motif — heart (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 2.8 × 2.8 cm; 2 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. A flat circle about 1.4 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.5 × 1.7 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With tan: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. → This piece is not stuffed.
  4. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–3 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 3.1 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 4–6 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 33 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 3.1 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. Change to mustard (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.4 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the head): between rounds 14 and 15, 10 st apart (count along round 14: about 5.2 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark thread, a oval about 8 mm wide and 5.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Blush about 11 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): in round 17, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Colour blush.
  • Strap (on the body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): with mustard, ch 6 (≈ 1.6 cm); for a firmer strap sl st back along it. Sew it along (in round 11, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 13, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ), catching it every 2–3 ch.
  • Strap (on the body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): with mustard, ch 11 (≈ 3.1 cm); for a firmer strap sl st back along it. Sew it along (between rounds 8 and 9, 0.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 11, 2 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 4.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left ), catching it every 2–3 ch.

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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  • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done