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Catálogo / Animais

Pug in an Ugly Christmas Sweater receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 126 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~5 h
Tamanho
12.3 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet dog pattern: a Pug in an Ugly Christmas Sweater amigurumi, about 12 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. It is an embarrassed apricot pug with a flat dark mask, forehead wrinkles, small folded ears and worried brows, swallowed by an oversized green striped sweater with a reindeer on the chest and sleeves too long for its paws. You need about 135 m of yarn: 55 m apricot, 30 m green, 25 m brown, 10 m white, 5 m dark green, 5 m coral and 5 m red. Plan on roughly 4 hours. A great gift for pug lovers and ugly-sweater party fans, or a funny shelf buddy for the holidays. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

Como fazer Pug in an Ugly Christmas Sweater de crochê

Avançado · 12 cm de altura · cerca de 5 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 18 partes em carreiras: Body, Turtleneck, Head, Muzzle mask, Nose pad, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Front leg ×2, Hind foot ×2, Tail, Reindeer face, Reindeer nose pompom, Snowflake patch ×2 (126 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 13 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

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0 de 93 carreiras feitas

  22. Size before assembly: an oval about 8 × 6.8 cm at the widest, 5.2 cm long; 22 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  23. With white: ch 5.
  24. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  25. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  26. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  27. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  28. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  29. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  30. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 10 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  3. Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 3 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  25. Size before assembly: an oval about 9.9 × 9.1 cm at the widest, 7.8 cm long; 31 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the top of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  26. With apricot: ch 4.
  27. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  28. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 8 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  9. A flat oval about 9 × 6.2 cm; 8 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 4 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  10. With brown: ch 9.
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  5. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.4 × 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With brown: ch 4.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 6 rounds.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 2.1 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 20 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 50 %) --> Bend ≈ 80° around round 3<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. Bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 3, 1 st from the centre front line, downward <!-- st 1.11 down -->). On the inner side draw rounds 2 and 4 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 4.4 cm long; 13 rounds.
  8. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  9. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  8. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 9 rounds.
  9. Change to apricot (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 6.4 cm long; 18 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 400° around round 16<!-- the bend spreads over 14 rounds --><!-- coil 2 -->. The piece rolls up into a spiral (about 1.1 turns) from round 16 to its tip: after stuffing, roll it up starting from the tip (round 1) toward the side that faces backward on the finished toy; the turns lie close, each wider than the last. From the tip to round 16 tack neighbouring turns together with 2–3 stitches of matching yarn every 3–4 rounds and hide the yarn inside.

  5. A flat circle about 3.1 cm across; 4 rounds.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  4. A flat circle about 3.2 cm across; 3 rounds.
  5. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  6. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 18 mm (on the head): between rounds 15 and 16, 15 st apart (count along round 15: about 7.6 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Safety nose, oval, 8×6 mm (on the nose pad): in round 1, on the centre top line.
  • Embroidery in black thread (on the nose pad), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line).
  • Embroidery in black thread (on the nose pad) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 4 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 9 and 10, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 9, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 9 and 10, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (in round 11, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, on the centre front line) → (in round 11, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 12 and 13, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 12, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 12 and 13, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 14 and 15, 9.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 13 and 14, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 13, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 14 and 15, 9.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 13 and 14, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 13, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 11 and 12, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 10, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).

Abreviações

MR
magic ring
sc
single crochet
inc
2 sc in the same stitch
dec
single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
BLO
work the round in back loops only
FLO
work the round in front loops only
ch
chain
sl st
slip stitch
st
stitch
R5
round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
(…) ×6
repeat 6 times
(24)
stitches in the round when it is done

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  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 11 and 12, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 10, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
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  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 10 and 11, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 10, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).