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Eeyore the Grey Donkey receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 73 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
2/3
Tempo
~3 h
Tamanho
9.3 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Eeyore from Winnie-the-Pooh by A. A. Milne (1926), a classic character now in the public domain, as a cute crochet amigurumi: the gloomy grey donkey of the book with droopy ears and a pink bow on his tail. About 9 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF.

Como fazer Eeyore the Grey Donkey de crochê

Intermediário · 9 cm de altura · cerca de 3 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 9 partes em carreiras: Body, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Front leg ×2, Back leg ×2, Tail (73 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 7 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

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1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 42 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 8.7 cm long; 31 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 4.3 × 2.7 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 8 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With muzzle: ch 6.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 4.7 cm long; 14 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 1.9 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 21 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 8 mm thick.<!-- flattened 50 % -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.7 cm at the widest, 3.9 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 70° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, on the centre bottom line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 5 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Satin stitch (on the body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in black thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 9 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 22, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the body) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in lid thread, a oval about 11.5 mm wide and 5 mm tall, horizontal stitches, turned 15° clockwise (looking at that surface); centred in round 23, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in nose thread, a oval about 3.5 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, 2.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
  • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 4, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 3 and 4, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 3 and 4, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 4, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Strands (mane) (on the tail): cut 6 pieces of yarn (mane) about 40 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 7, on the centre top line -> in round 7, on the centre bottom line, evenly spaced. Trim to about 10 mm.
  • Strands (mane) (on the body): cut 60 pieces of yarn (mane) about 38 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 27, on the centre front line -> in round 29, on the centre front line -> between rounds 30 and 31, on the centre front line -> between rounds 30 and 31, on the centre back line -> in round 29, on the centre back line -> in round 27, on the centre back line -> in round 25, on the centre back line -> in round 23, on the centre back line, evenly spaced. Trim to about 9 mm.

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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  • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done