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Long-Legged Grey Cat receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 132 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~4 h
Tamanho
14 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

A free crochet cat pattern for a slim grey cat with long legs, a little rose dress and striped socks. This long-legged amigurumi cat sits with its knees softly bent and its arms hanging by its sides, with a cream heart on the dress, a scalloped hem, a white muzzle and pink cheeks. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and is about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall seated; the dress is a separate piece worked down from a chain ring, and the safety-eyed head, arms, legs and tail are sewn on. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to check every piece.

Como fazer Long-Legged Grey Cat de crochê

Avançado · 14 cm de altura · cerca de 4 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 14 partes em carreiras: Body, Dress, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Tail, Cheek ×2, Heart (147 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 10 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

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0 de 82 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 5 cm at the widest, 9.3 cm long; 27 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.3 cm at the widest, 4.5 cm long; 14 rounds.
  2. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.7 cm at the widest, 4.2 cm long; 18 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.3 × 1.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With white: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.9 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 6 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 3.3 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 29 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 7.9 cm long; 22 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 60° around round 9<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 9, on the centre front line <!-- st 0.23 right -->). On the inner side draw rounds 8 and 10 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.4 × 1.6 cm at the widest, 9.5 cm long; 27 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is at a turn of the oval, on the piece's centre line; R1 starts there, so no shift is needed. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With dusty rose: ch 4.
  3. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  4. Change to dusty rose (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  5. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  6. Change to dusty rose (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  7. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  8. Change to dusty rose (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  9. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  10. Change to dusty rose (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  11. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
  12. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 60° around round 14<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 14, on the centre bottom line <!-- st 0.08 right -->). On the inner side draw rounds 13 and 15 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 9.4 cm long; 26 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 110° around round 10<!-- the bend spreads over 12 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 10, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 8 and 11 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Flat motif — heart (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 2.1 × 2 cm; 1 row.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 9 mm (on the head): between rounds 10 and 11, 6 st apart (count along round 10: about 3.1 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in pink thread, a triangle about 6 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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  • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done