amigurumi
  • Catalog
  • Workspace
Create
amigurumi
  • Catalog
  • Patterns by animal
  • About
  • Help
  • ChatGPT & Claude app
  • Terms
  • Privacy

Zero-math, zero-confusion patterns. Powered by geometric AI modeling. © 2026

  • English
  • Русский
  • Español
  • Português
  • Deutsch
  • Français
Catalog / Animals

Electric Yellow Mouse crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 86 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~3 h
Size
13.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A crochet amigurumi inspired by Pikachu from Pokémon: a yellow mouse with black-tipped ears, red cheeks and a lightning tail. About 14 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF. Unofficial fan-made design, not affiliated with or endorsed by Pokémon.

How to crochet the Electric Yellow Mouse

Intermediate · 14 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 11 pieces in rounds: Body, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Foot ×2, Tail base, Tail bolt, Cheek ×2 (86 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 7 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 9 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 60 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 8.7 cm long; 31 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.9 cm at the widest, 5.8 cm long; 17 rounds.
  2. Change to lemon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 2.1 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 29 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 35 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 8 mm thick.<!-- flattened 50 % -->

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.7 × 1.3 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 13 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With stripe: ch 3.
  3. Change to lemon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  4. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  5. Press the piece flat to about 4 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 75 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Bend ≈ 80° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, 3 st from the line on the toy's left side, upward). On the inner side draw rounds 6 and 7 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.8 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 14 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the back of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With lemon: ch 6.
  3. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Press the piece flat to about 6 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 85 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Bend ≈ 70° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, 6 st from the line on the toy's left side, downward). On the inner side draw rounds 6 and 7 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 6 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Nobody has shown theirs yet. Be the first.

Sign in to show yours

No questions yet

Ask the first one — the author and the AI helper both read here.

    Make this toy yours

    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

    Try asking:

    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
    Open in the 3D editorTurn a photo into a crochet pattern

    More like this

    All mouse patterns →All animals →
    • Preview of Winnie-the-Pooh with a Honey Pot
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Winnie-the-Pooh with a Honey Pot

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
      Weirdness
      1/5
      Times crocheted
      0
    • Preview of Tigger the Bouncy Tiger
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Tigger the Bouncy Tiger

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Speedy Blue Hedgehog
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Speedy Blue Hedgehog

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    • Preview of White Beagle with Black Ears
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      White Beagle with Black Ears

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Grey Tabby Loaf Cat
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Grey Tabby Loaf Cat

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Confused Yellow Duck
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Confused Yellow Duck

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    • Preview of Pudding Puppy in a Beret
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Pudding Puppy in a Beret

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Piglet in a Green Jumper
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Piglet in a Green Jumper

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    • Preview of Peter Rabbit in a Blue Jacket
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Peter Rabbit in a Blue Jacket

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Bunny in a Pink Hood
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Bunny in a Pink Hood

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Simple White Bunny in a Dress
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Simple White Bunny in a Dress

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Hungry Green Caterpillar
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Hungry Green Caterpillar

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Ear → body (make 2). Centre: in round 28, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (14 st); the seam covers rounds 25–30 of the body, about 4 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the body, both layers sewn down. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line top to bottom (along the body), across the rounds: rounds 11–14 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points forward and slightly inward.
    1. Foot → body (make 2). Centre: in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 3–4 of the body, about 5 st wide. It points forward and slightly down.
    1. Tail base → body. Centre: in round 12, on the centre back line. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 11–14 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points backward. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Tail bolt → tail base. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 10–13 of the tail base (all the way round). It points backward and up. Press it into the base by about 5 mm.
    1. Cheek → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 17 and 18, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 16–19 of the body, about 3 st wide.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 14 mm (on the body): between rounds 20 and 21, 7 st apart (count along round 20: about 3.5 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Satin stitch (on the body): in tipblack thread, a oval about 3.5 mm wide and 2.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 19, on the centre front line.
    • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 18 and 19, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 18, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0