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Fainting Sheep on Its Back receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 59 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~5 h
Tamanho
12.7 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet sheep pattern: a Fainting Sheep on Its Back amigurumi, about 13 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A fluffy white bobble sheep lies belly up with four stiff legs in the air, X-shaped eyes and its tongue out. You need about 155 m of yarn: 120 m white, 10 m beige, 10 m dark grey, 10 m tan and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 5 hours. A dramatic gift for anyone who loves a good joke, and a cheerful surprise among your other farm animals. Turn the 3D model around to see how the head flops, and follow the round-by-round pattern.

Como fazer Fainting Sheep on Its Back de crochê

Avançado · 13 cm de altura · cerca de 5 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 56 partes em carreiras: Body, Head, Leg ×4, Face, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Wool curl ×45 (90 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 10 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

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0 de 73 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 9.3 cm at the widest, 7.7 cm long; 31 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 25 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 4.7 cm long; 14 rounds.
  2. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat oval about 7.9 × 5.9 cm; 8 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With beige: ch 7.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.8 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 1.5 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 18 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 40 %) -->

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Of these: on the head — 45 (19 pairs, left and right, and 7 single). A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Satin stitch (on the face): in nose pink thread, a oval about 6 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line .
  • Satin stitch (on the face): in mouth thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 10 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 3 and 4, on the centre bottom line .
  • Embroidery in dark grey thread (on the face) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, 8 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in dark grey thread (on the face) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 3.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, 7 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the face): in pink thread in several layers so it stands out, a oval about 5 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 4 and 5, on the centre bottom line , then moved 1 mm down (looking at the toy's face).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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  • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done