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Sheep in Pajamas receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 123 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~6 h
Tamanho
15.3 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet sheep pattern: a Sheep in Pajamas amigurumi, about 15 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. It is a fluffy white sheep in blue striped pajamas and a striped nightcap, hugging a pink pillow with a big yawn. You need about 170 m of yarn: 70 m white, 30 m blue, 15 m cream, 10 m dark blue, 10 m beige, 10 m pale blue, 10 m tan, 5 m light pink, 5 m brown and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 6 hours. It is a bedtime gift, a nursery shelf toy or a sleepy desk companion. Rotate the 3D model to see the nightcap and pillow, then crochet along with the round-by-round pattern.

Como fazer Sheep in Pajamas de crochê

Avançado · 15 cm de altura · cerca de 6 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 59 partes em carreiras: Body in sweater, Head, Face, Ear ×2, Pajama leg ×2, Cheek ×2, Pajama sleeve ×2, Pillow, Nightcap, Pompom, Wool curl ×45 (123 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 11 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

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0 de 102 carreiras feitas

  15. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 5.1 cm long; 18 rounds.
  16. Change to pale blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  17. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  18. Change to pale blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  19. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  20. Change to pale blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  21. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  22. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  21. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 25 rounds.
  22. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  23. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  8. A flat oval about 7.9 × 5.9 cm; 8 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  9. With beige: ch 7.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  6. Size before assembly: about 1.8 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 1.5 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 18 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 40 %) -->

  9. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 3 cm long; 10 rounds.
  10. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  7. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 10 rounds.
  8. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. A flat oval about 6 × 4.4 cm; 6 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  8. With light pink: ch 6.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  27. Size before assembly: about 6.5 cm at the widest, 9.6 cm long; 27 rounds.
  28. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  29. Change to dark blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  30. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  31. Change to dark blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  32. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  33. Change to dark blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  34. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  35. Change to dark blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R24).
  36. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R26).
  37. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 120° around round 12<!-- the bend spreads over 7 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 12, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 4.02 left -->). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 9 to round 15, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 6 rounds) and fasten off inside.

  7. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 7 rounds.
  8. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  9. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  3. Of these: on the head — 45 (19 pairs, left and right, and 7 single). A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the face) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, 4.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 3 and 4, 6 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, 7 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the face): in nose pink thread, a oval about 6 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line .
  • Satin stitch (on the face): in mouth thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 10 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 3 and 4, on the centre bottom line .

Body in sweater · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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    • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done