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Catálogo / Animais

Sushi Cat receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 120 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~4 h
Tamanho
11.5 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet sushi cat pattern: a Sushi Cat amigurumi, about 12 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A sleepy ginger-striped cat with closed happy eyes and pink cheeks lies on a white rice block with a dark green nori band, just like a piece of nigiri. You need about 130 m of yarn: 50 m salmon, 35 m white, 15 m cream, 10 m charcoal, 10 m dark orange, 5 m pink and 5 m light pink. Plan on roughly 4 hours. A funny gift for cat lovers and sushi fans, or a plump desk buddy. Spin the 3D model to see the nori band from the side and follow the round-by-round pattern.

Como fazer Sushi Cat de crochê

Avançado · 12 cm de altura · cerca de 4 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 12 partes em carreiras: Rice block, Cat body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Front paw ×2, Tail, Cheek ×2, Nori band (120 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 9 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

Marque os itens conforme for separando.

0 de 12 separados

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 95 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.5 cm at the widest, 7.3 cm long; 29 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 7 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 18 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 25 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre top line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to salmon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  3. Change to salmon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  4. Change to salmon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  5. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  6. Press the piece flat to about 4.9 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 35 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 25 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to salmon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.3 × 1.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.5 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 7 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 4 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 35 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.5 × 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 6.4 cm long; 18 rounds.
  2. Change to salmon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Change to dark orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  4. Change to salmon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  5. Change to dark orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  6. Change to salmon (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 85° around round 8<!-- the bend spreads over 6 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 8, on the centre front line). On the inner side draw rounds 6 and 9 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.7 cm at the widest, 1.8 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 13, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 13 and 14, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 14, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 13 and 14, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 13, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in nose thread, a triangle about 6 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in brown thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

Rice block · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done