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Vintage Long-Arm Teddy receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 115 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
3/3
Tempo
~4 h
Tamanho
12.6 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

A free crochet teddy bear pattern in the classic vintage style, with a long pointed muzzle, long curved arms and big oval feet. This amigurumi teddy is caramel with sand-colored paws and muzzle, a little hump on its back, small black eyes and a stitched triangle nose for an old-fashioned look. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and sits about 13 cm (5 in) tall, with the arms and legs bent after stuffing and sewn on. Read it row by row with stitch counts and rotate the interactive 3D model to see how the hump, arms and feet sit on the body.

Como fazer Vintage Long-Arm Teddy de crochê

Avançado · 13 cm de altura · cerca de 4 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 13 partes em carreiras: Body, Head, Back hump, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Foot pad ×2, Tail (115 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 9 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

Do que você vai precisar

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 72 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.7 cm at the widest, 6.9 cm long; 22 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.2 cm at the widest, 5 cm long; 22 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.1 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.1 × 1.9 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 10 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With tan: ch 5.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Change to caramel (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. → This piece is not stuffed.
  4. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–3 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 3 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 4–6 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 32 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 7.6 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. Change to caramel (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 50° around round 11<!-- the bend spreads over 6 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 11, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right <!-- st 0.79 right -->). On the inner side draw rounds 10 and 12 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 18 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 20° around round 8<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 8, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 7 and 9 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 6 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. A flat oval about 3.7 × 2.9 cm; 4 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With tan: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest (lies flat); 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 8 mm (on the head): in round 14, 11 st apart (count along round 14: about 5.4 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark thread, a triangle about 11 mm wide and 7 mm tall, horizontal stitches, turned 180° clockwise (looking at that surface); centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Blush about 8 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): in round 16, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour blush.

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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  • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done