A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face
Free crochet bigfoot pattern: a Bigfoot Hiding Behind a Tree amigurumi, about 15 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. It is a shaggy brown Bigfoot with a flat tan face, heavy brows, big feet and shifty side-glancing eyes, sitting beside a green pine tree with one big hand gripping the trunk.
You need about 170 m of yarn: 100 m brown, 25 m tan, 20 m green, 10 m dark green, 5 m dark brown, 5 m light brown and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 6 hours.
A funny gift for campers, hikers and cryptid fans. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.
How to crochet the Bigfoot Hiding Behind a Tree
Advanced · 15 cm tall · about 6 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook
Crochet the 12 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Muzzle, Leg with big foot ×2, Foot pad ×2, Arm ×2, Cheek ×2, Pine tree (145 rounds in all).
Stuff and put it together in 9 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.
Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.
1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.
Worked in
Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.
Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 7.1 cm long; 23 rounds.
Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing.
Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.
Size before assembly: about 8.3 cm at the widest, 6.5 cm long; 27 rounds.
Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
→ Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R22).
Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.
Size before assembly: an oval about 4.2 × 3 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 5 rounds.
The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
With tan: ch 5.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing.
Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.
Size before assembly: about 5 cm at the widest, 5.9 cm long; 19 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing.
Stuff firmly, then press the piece slightly flat (oval cross-section; flattened 25 %).
A flat circle about 3.8 cm across; 5 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing.
Do not stuff.
Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 7.9 cm long; 23 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing.
Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.
A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing.
Do not stuff.
Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 13.9 cm long; 41 rounds.
Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
Change to dark green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
→ Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R30).
Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.
The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.
Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 13, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 12, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 12 and 13, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in charcoal thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
Strands (mane) (on the head): cut 7 pieces of yarn (brown, dark brown) about 60 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 11, 11.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 15, 13.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 19, 14 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 20 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
Strands (mane) (on the head): cut 7 pieces of yarn (brown, dark brown) about 60 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 11, 11.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 15, 13.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 19, 14 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 20 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
Mane (on the head): cut 22 pieces of yarn (brown, dark brown) about 52 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 15, 16.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 16, on the centre back line -> in round 15, 16.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 16 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
Strands (mane) (on the arm): cut 9 pieces of yarn (brown, dark brown) about 42 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 9, 1 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> in round 9, on the centre front line -> in round 9, 1 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 11 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
Strands (mane) (on the arm): cut 9 pieces of yarn (brown, dark brown) about 42 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 9, 1 st from the centre back line, upward -> in round 9, on the centre front line -> in round 9, 1 st from the centre back line, downward , evenly spaced. Trim to about 11 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
Mane (on the head): cut 20 pieces of yarn (brown, dark brown) about 52 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 9, 15 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 9, on the centre back line -> in round 9, 15 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right, evenly spaced. Trim to about 16 mm. Give the strands a soft wave (see the last item of this section).
Satin stitch (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in white thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 9 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 14 and 15, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left.
Satin stitch (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in charcoal thread in several layers so it stands out, a oval about 5 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 14 and 15, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
Curling the strands: Soft waves: untwist each strand into its plies and brush lightly.
× scV incΛ dec
Abbreviations
MR
magic ring
sc
single crochet
inc
2 sc in the same stitch
dec
single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
