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Catalog / Fantasy

Green Dino with a Red Saddle crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 74 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~2 h
Size
10.8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A crochet amigurumi inspired by Yoshi from Super Mario: a green dino with a big round nose, a red saddle, red back spikes and orange shoes. About 11 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF. Unofficial fan-made design, not affiliated with or endorsed by Nintendo.

How to crochet the Green Dino with a Red Saddle

Intermediate · 11 cm tall · about 2 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 13 pieces in rounds: Body, Nose, Spike ×3, Saddle shell, Tail, Arm ×2, Shoe ×2, Eye bump ×2 (77 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 10 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 9 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 63 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 8.7 cm long; 31 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Of these: top — 1; mid — 1; low — 1. Flat motif — triangle (worked in turned rows, one layer of fabric), about 1.1 × 1.6 cm; 3 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. A flat circle about 4.5 cm across; 6 rounds.
  2. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 35° around round 3<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 3, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 2 and 3 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 1.8 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly, then press the piece slightly flat (oval cross-section; flattened 40 %).

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.5 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Nose → body. Centre: between rounds 19 and 20, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 17–22 of the body, about 5 st wide. It points forward. Press it into the base by about 5 mm.
    1. Spike (top) → body. Centre: in round 27, on the centre back line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers rounds 25–26 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points backward and slightly up.
    1. Spike (mid) → body. Centre: between rounds 24 and 25, on the centre back line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers rounds 23–24 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Spike (low) → body. Centre: in round 21, on the centre back line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers rounds 19–20 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Saddle shell → body. Centre: in round 15, on the centre back line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 10–20 of the body, about 9 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 8 mm thick).
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 8, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (15 st); the seam covers rounds 7–11 of the body, about 6 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 13, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line top to bottom (along the body), across the rounds: rounds 11–15 of the body, about 2 st wide. It points forward and slightly down.
    1. Shoe → body (make 2). Centre: in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 2–4 of the body, about 5 st wide. It points forward and slightly down.
    1. Eye bump → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 27 and 28, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 25–30 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points up and slightly forward. Press it into the base by about 5 mm.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 15 and 16, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 15 and 16, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Blush about 9 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the body, both sides): in round 17, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Colour blush.
    • Safety eye with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the eye bump) (2: one on each eye bump; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in round 4, on the centre front line.

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0