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Catalog / Fantasy

Little Green Ogre crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 76 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~3 h
Size
11.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A crochet amigurumi inspired by Shrek from Shrek: a little green ogre with trumpet ears, a cream shirt and a brown vest. About 12 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF. Unofficial fan-made design, not affiliated with or endorsed by DreamWorks.

How to crochet the Little Green Ogre

Intermediate · 12 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 9 pieces in rounds: Body in a shirt and vest, Head, Arm in a sleeve ×2, Leg with a boot ×2, Trumpet ear ×2, Nose (76 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 6 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 60 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.4 cm at the widest, 4.7 cm long; 17 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to belt (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  3. Change to vest (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 9.1 cm at the widest, 7.4 cm long; 29 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 12 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Change to shirt (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.8 × 3 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 9 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With boot: ch 4.
  3. Change to pants (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.3 × 1.5 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With ogre: ch 4.
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Press the piece flat to about 1.8 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 20 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 8 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

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    1. Body in a shirt and vest is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body in a shirt and vest. Stuff the body in a shirt and vest firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body in a shirt and vest's opening (R17) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along rounds 23–24 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Arm in a sleeve → body in a shirt and vest (make 2). Centre: in round 13, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line top to bottom (along the body in a shirt and vest), across the rounds: rounds 11–15 of the body in a shirt and vest, about 2 st wide. It points forward and down.
    1. Leg with a boot → body in a shirt and vest (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (20 st); the seam covers rounds 4–8 of the body in a shirt and vest, about 9 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Trumpet ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 14, 16 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 13–15 of the head, about 2 st wide. It points outward and slightly up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Nose → head. Centre: between rounds 19 and 20, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 18–20 of the head, about 5 st wide. It points forward. Press it into the base by about 5 mm.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the head): between rounds 16 and 17, 8 st apart (count along round 16: about 4 st each side of the centre front line). Iris irisbrown #5a3a1e.
    • Embroidery in browc thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 13 and 14, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 13, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 13, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in mouthc thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 21 and 22, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 23, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 23, on the centre front line ) → (in round 23, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 21 and 22, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Blush about 10 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 20 and 21, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Colour blush.

    Body in a shirt and vest · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0