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Catalog / Fantasy

Little Fire Lizard crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 80 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~3 h
Size
10.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A crochet amigurumi inspired by Charmander from Pokémon: an orange lizard with a cream belly and a flame on the tip of its tail. About 11 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF. Unofficial fan-made design, not affiliated with or endorsed by Pokémon.

How to crochet the Little Fire Lizard

Intermediate · 11 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 8 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Tail, Flame (80 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 6 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 9 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 67 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.6 cm at the widest, 5.2 cm long; 18 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to charorange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.2 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 26 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 4.2 cm long; 12 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 100° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 1.84 left -->). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 4 to round 8, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 4 rounds) and fasten off inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.9 cm at the widest, 3.3 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Change to flameyellow (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

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    Make this toy yours

    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

    Try asking:

    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R18) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along round 20 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 15, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line top to bottom (along the body), across the rounds: rounds 13–17 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points forward and down.
    1. Leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (15 st); the seam covers rounds 4–7 of the body, about 6 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 6, 3 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left. Sew around the opening (18 st); the seam covers rounds 5–11 of the body, about 8 st wide. It points backward and slightly outward.
    1. Flame → tail. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–2 of the tail, about 2 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 15 mm (on the head): in round 14, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.3 st each side of the centre front line). Colour eyenavy #16203f.
    • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 17 and 18, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Blush about 9 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 16 and 17, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour blushpink.

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0