amigurumi
  • Catalog
  • Workspace
Create
amigurumi
  • Catalog
  • Patterns by animal
  • About
  • Help
  • ChatGPT & Claude app
  • Terms
  • Privacy

Zero-math, zero-confusion patterns. Powered by geometric AI modeling. © 2026

  • English
  • Русский
  • Español
  • Português
  • Deutsch
  • Français
Catalog / Fantasy

Floppy Dragon crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 117 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~4 h
Size
13.9 cm
Weirdness
2/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free floppy dragon crochet pattern for a soft sage-green amigurumi dragon with long, dangly arms and legs that flop wherever you sit it. This dragon plushie has a cream belly, little cream horns, cream paws, small dark sage wings and a row of soft spikes running from its head down to the tail. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, with lightly stuffed limbs, 10 mm safety eyes and an embroidered smile, and it ends up about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall. Follow the pattern row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every piece is sewn.

How to crochet the Floppy Dragon

Advanced · 14 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 17 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Muzzle, Belly patch, Horn ×2, Long arm ×2, Long leg ×2, Tail, Wing ×2, Soft spike ×4 (117 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 13 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 8 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 84 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.4 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.1 cm at the widest, 6.8 cm long; 27 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.4 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With sage: ch 5.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat oval about 6.1 × 3.7 cm; 5 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running vertically, top to bottom. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 3 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 8.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 14 rounds.
  2. Change to sage (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 5.8 cm long; 17 rounds.
  2. Change to sage (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.6 cm at the widest, 3.3 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 40° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 5 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 3 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 32 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) -->

  1. Of these: on the head — 1; on the body — 2; on the tail — 1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 6 mm thick.<!-- flattened 55 % -->

Nobody has shown theirs yet. Be the first.

Sign in to show yours

No questions yet

Ask the first one — the author and the AI helper both read here.

    Make this toy yours

    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

    Try asking:

    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
    Open in the 3D editorTurn a photo into a crochet pattern

    More like this

    All dragon patterns →All fantasy →
    • Preview of Green Dino with a Red Saddle
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Green Dino with a Red Saddle

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
      Weirdness
      1/5
      Times crocheted
      0
    • Preview of Big Grey Forest Spirit
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Big Grey Forest Spirit

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Black Baby Dragon
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Black Baby Dragon

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      3/3
    • Preview of Blue Alien with Big Ears
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Blue Alien with Big Ears

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      3/3
    • Preview of Little Spider Hero
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Little Spider Hero

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    • Preview of Sleepy Big Belly Bear
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Sleepy Big Belly Bear

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    • Preview of Little Green Ogre
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Little Green Ogre

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Burlap Sack Doll
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Burlap Sack Doll

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    • Preview of Happy Snowman with Twig Arms
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Happy Snowman with Twig Arms

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    • Preview of Yellow Capsule Helper
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Yellow Capsule Helper

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    • Preview of Ghost in a Mouse Costume
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Ghost in a Mouse Costume

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      2/3
    • Preview of Pirate Boy in a Straw Hat
      Engine
      Crochet itRemix

      Pirate Boy in a Straw Hat

      by the pattern engine

      Difficulty
      1/3
    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R21) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along rounds 22–23 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Muzzle → head. Centre: between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (22 st); the seam covers rounds 14–20 of the head, about 8 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Belly patch → body. Centre: in round 11, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 6–18 of the body, about 8 st wide.
    1. Horn → head (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 3–7 of the head, about 3 st wide. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Long arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 19, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (6 st against 6 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 18–19 of the body, about 5 st wide. It points down and slightly outward and slightly forward.
    1. Long leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 6, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (7 st against 7 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 5–8 of the body, about 6 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 6, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (20 st); the seam covers rounds 4–12 of the body, about 10 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Wing → body (make 2). Centre: in round 18, 12 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (19 st); the seam covers rounds 14–21 of the body, about 6 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the body, both layers sewn down. It points outward and slightly up and slightly backward.
    1. Soft spike (no. 1) → head. Centre: in round 12, on the centre back line. Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 12–13 of the head, about 2 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Soft spike (no. 2) → body. Centre: in round 20, on the centre back line. Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 19–21 of the body, about 2 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Soft spike (no. 3) → body. Centre: in round 14, on the centre back line. Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 13–14 of the body, about 2 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Soft spike (no. 4) → tail. Centre: in round 6, on the centre top line. Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 5–7 of the tail, about 2 st wide. It points up.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10 mm (on the head): between rounds 14 and 15, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.7 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Blush about 12 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 17 and 18, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour pink.
    • Embroidery in brown thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in brown thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0