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Catalog / Fantasy

Jersey Devil Plush crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 114 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineFantasy

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~5 h
Size
15.8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet cryptid pattern: a Jersey Devil Plush amigurumi, about 16 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. The toy is a chubby purple pony-devil with a short wide muzzle, a small smile, big round eyes, two little curved horns, small pointed ears, a dark mane and bat wings. You need about 140 m of yarn: 85 m violet, 20 m purple, 15 m lilac, 10 m dark purple, 5 m charcoal and 5 m blush pink. Plan on roughly 5 hours. Make it as a gift for folklore and monster fans or a spooky-season shelf friend. Rotate the 3D model to check the wings and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Jersey Devil Plush

Advanced · 16 cm tall · about 5 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 18 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Long horse muzzle, Horn ×2, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Bat wing ×2, Tail, Tail fork tip ×2, Cheek ×2 (125 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 12 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 105 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.4 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 19 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.8 cm at the widest, 7.8 cm long; 30 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 7.9 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 10 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 4.3 × 3.1 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 6 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is at a turn of the oval, on the piece's centre line; R1 starts there, so no shift is needed. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With lilac: ch 5.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1 cm at the widest, 3 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 85° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces backward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, 0.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 0.48 left -->). On the inner side draw rounds 3 and 5 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 9 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 2.7 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 32 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 40 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4 cm at the widest, 3.1 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. Change to violet (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Flat motif — half circle (worked in turned rows, one layer of fabric), about 5 × 9.3 cm; 11 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.1 cm at the widest, 4.5 cm long; 13 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 40° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 5 and 7 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 4 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Of these: no. 1 — 1; side — 1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.3 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 15 mm (on the head): in round 15, 12 st apart (count along round 15: about 6 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the long horse muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in plum thread, a oval about 3 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 1 and 2, 1.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
  • Embroidery in plum thread (on the long horse muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 2, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 2, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Strands (mane) (on the head): cut 22 pieces of yarn (dark purple) about 64 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 5, on the centre front line -> in round 2, on the centre front line -> in round 1, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 3, on the centre back line -> in round 8, on the centre back line -> in round 13, on the centre back line, evenly spaced. Trim to about 22 mm.
  • Fringe (on the head): cut 7 pieces of yarn (dark purple) about 52 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 5 and 6, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 6 and 7, on the centre front line -> between rounds 5 and 6, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 16 mm.

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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  • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done