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Catalog / Fantasy

Mothman Keychain crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 87 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~3 h
Size
8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet mothman pattern: a Mothman Keychain amigurumi, about 8 cm tall in fingering yarn with a 2.0 mm hook. This one is a tiny dark grey moth creature with huge red eyes, feathery antennae, small wings and a cream ruff, with a loop on top for a key ring. You need about 80 m of yarn: 25 m dark grey, 10 m slate grey, 10 m cream, 10 m charcoal, 5 m ebony, 5 m mid grey, 5 m blush pink, 5 m beige and 5 m red. Plan on roughly 3 hours. Clip it to keys or a bag as a cryptid charm, or give it to a friend who loves folklore mysteries. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Mothman Keychain

Advanced · 8 cm tall · about 3 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 21 pieces in rounds: Body, Foot ×2, Lower wing ×2, Fluffy ruff, Head, Upper wing ×2, Wing eyespot ×2, Face patch, Cheek ×2, Arm ×2, Antenna stalk ×2, Feather antenna ×2, Key ring loop (95 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 13 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 14 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 78 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.1 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 13 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Change to dark grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.8 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 3 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 75 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 8 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.8 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.9 cm at the widest, 3.8 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.8 cm at the widest, 4.2 cm long; 16 rounds.
  2. Change to slate grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Press the piece flat to about 3 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 85 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 8 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.2 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat oval about 3.6 × 2.7 cm; 5 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With mid grey: ch 5.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1.1 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Change to dark grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.4 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 45° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 0.84 left -->). It is a slight bend: tilt the piece as you sew it on; optionally tack the inner side with 1–2 stitches drawing rounds 4 and 5 together. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Flat motif — leaf (pointed leaf, worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 1.9 × 0.8 cm; 1 row.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 0.8 cm long; 3 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in charcoal (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 16 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Foot → body (make 2). Centre: in round 4, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (8 st); the seam covers rounds 3–6 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Lower wing → body (make 2). Centre: in round 7, 3.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 5–9 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points outward and slightly backward. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Fluffy ruff → body. Put the fluffy ruff around the body: the chain ring (24 st) lies along the edge of the last round of the body, the rounds spreading down; sew the ring to the body all round and let the rest lie free on it.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R13) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along rounds 17–18 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 8 mm.
    1. Upper wing → body (make 2). Centre: in round 9, 9 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 8–13 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points outward and up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Wing eyespot → upper wing (2 — one on each upper wing). Centre: in round 8, on the centre front line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 6–10 of the upper wing, about 3 st wide.
    1. Face patch → head. Centre: in round 11, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 7–15 of the head, about 10 st wide.
    1. Cheek → face patch (make 2). Centre: between rounds 4 and 5, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 2–5 of the face patch, about 3 st wide.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 8, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (3 st against 3 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 7–9 of the body, about 2 st wide. It points down and outward and forward.
    1. Antenna stalk → head (make 2). Centre: in round 4, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (4 st); the seam covers rounds 3–5 of the head, about 1 st wide. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Feather antenna → antenna stalk (2 — one on each antenna stalk). Centre: at the centre of the magic ring (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its base (the end with 3 sc in one chain); the seam covers round 1 of the antenna stalk, about 2 st wide. It points outward and up.
    1. Key ring loop → head. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 2 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 1–2 of the head, about 1 st wide. It points up.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12 mm (on the face patch): between rounds 2 and 3, 7 st apart (count along round 2: about 3.3 st each side of the centre top line). Iris red #e0282f.
    • Embroidery in plum thread (on the face patch), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line) → (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ).

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0