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Catalog / Fantasy

Gnome Ornament crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 101 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~3 h
Size
9.1 cm
Weirdness
2/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet gnome pattern: a Gnome Ornament amigurumi, about 9 cm tall in fingering yarn with a 2.0 mm hook. It is a grey gnome with a tall red hat pulled down over its eyes, a round peach nose, a big white beard, green mittens and a gold loop on the hat tip. You need about 75 m of yarn: 25 m grey, 20 m red, 10 m white, 5 m gold, 5 m peach, 5 m brown and 5 m green. Plan on roughly 2 hours. A cosy Christmas gnome for the tree, a shelf or a gift tag. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Gnome Ornament

Advanced · 9 cm tall · about 3 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 15 pieces in rounds: Robe body, Hat, Pom-pom, Nose, Beard, Arm ×2, Boot ×2, Mistletoe leaf ×2, Berry ×3, Hanging loop (102 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 13 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 12 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 81 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.5 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 27 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5 cm at the widest, 8.3 cm long; 29 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 150° around round 12<!-- the bend spreads over 8 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 12, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 2.85 left -->). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 7 to round 17, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 10 rounds) and fasten off inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.8 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 3.6 cm long; 14 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 2.6 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 20 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 8 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly, then press the piece slightly flat (oval cross-section; flattened 40 %).

  1. Flat motif — leaf (pointed leaf, worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 2.6 × 1.1 cm; 1 row.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.5 cm at the widest, 0.7 cm long; 2 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.9 cm at the widest, 0.8 cm long; 3 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 20 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
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    1. Robe body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Hat → robe body. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew around the opening (48 st); the seam covers rounds 15–16 of the robe body (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 6 mm.
    1. Pom-pom → hat. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 3–21 of the hat (all the way round). It points up.
    1. Nose → robe body. Centre: between rounds 20 and 21, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 16–22 of the robe body, about 5 st wide. It points forward. Press it into the base by about 6 mm.
    1. Beard → robe body. Centre: in round 20, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 2–26 of the robe body, about 21 st wide. It points down. Press it into the base by about 10 mm.
    1. Arm → robe body (make 2). Centre: in round 16, 9.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 15–17 of the robe body, about 3 st wide. It points forward and down and slightly outward.
    1. Boot → robe body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 3 and 4, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 3–5 of the robe body, about 4 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Mistletoe leaf (no. 1) → hat. Centre: in round 24, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 22–27 of the hat, about 6 st wide.
    1. Mistletoe leaf (no. 2) → hat. Centre: between rounds 24 and 25, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 22–27 of the hat, about 6 st wide.
    1. Berry (no. 1) → hat. Centre: in round 24, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 23–25 of the hat, about 2 st wide. It points forward and outward.
    1. Berry (no. 2) → hat. Centre: in round 24, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 23–25 of the hat, about 2 st wide. It points forward and outward.
    1. Berry (no. 3) → hat. Centre: in round 23, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 22–24 of the hat, about 2 st wide. It points forward and outward and slightly up.
    1. Hanging loop → pom-pom. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 4 st of the edge; the seam covers round 5 of the pom-pom, about 3 st wide. It points up.

    Robe body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0